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I have foot brace and knee pad for my left leg on my autocross car, but the only OS bar is a factory thing on the passenger side. I couldn't drive that car on a course with only one hand. The four point harness pretty much keeps my fat *** in place.

Link please. I looked, but must not have used the correct words

You will lose that much or more HP by having a 100lb person riding with you.

Your Factory Service Manual will show a number of oil passage plugs you can tie into

What you might find with the highest priced one is that the guy meant $700 and somebody with zero feedbacks went ahead and bought it as a joke. What's truly funny is I've bought and sold NOS tachometers and they don't always work. Just because they're new, there's no guarantee.

I looked into a printer to mass produce my widget. $2500 and it can print 12x12x12. My local library has three and they will train you how to print, so I was very interested. Learn at the library, then buy my own. There is a wide variety of filaments available. I was looking at a Glass...

I invented and have been developing a Mopar part, (soon to be for sale). I cast the first in aluminum and then discovered a foundry. The raw castings have gone up 20% in less than a year. To be profitable, one has to get 2 1/2 times cost, including that 20% increase.

Based on limited past experience, my guess is $20,000 each for the first two, $2 each after.

You need a factory shop manual. Buy the cheapest (and rattiest) manual on eBay. It will tell you how to set the choke and carb for proper cold starting. I think there is one online for free.

Yeah, it's used race rubber. Pros trade it off while it's still good as they don't want to race on used rubber. It's some sticky **** that's affordable. It holds up well for autocrossing, but is short lived (but loads of fun) on the street

Done well, you scare yourself and that gets the adrenaline going. Stickier tires are even more fun. Try some of these on your Coronet: https://usedracingtires.com/collections/in-stock/products/245-40-15-hoosier-r7 https://usedracingtires.com/collections/in-stock/products/295-35-15-hoosier-r7

Was the plan to cruise on the one barrel and save fuel? If you have a running 440 motor, 413 intake and one four barrel with the skills to get it in and exhaust plumbed out the back, another four barrel isn't hard to find.

If there is a fairly long stretch of 65 mph, it would be interesting to top the tank at the beginning and then again when the 65 mph was over. My unscientifically proven theory is: starting at 60mph, wind resistance hurts mileage noticeably.

Had access to a elevator scale for free, so I weighed a lot of vehicles. Title weights and factory figures are usually accurate, but not always.

At the Co-op in Sturgis, it's $3.16 per gallon on 3/8/22

Bought a '97 Camry 4 cylinder 5 speed with 170,000 miles. It now has 325, ugly as hell with rust and a hail storm that took out the glass, but it's still getting 28-30mpg on the Interstate and doesn't use oil. I have installed 3 timing belts and 3 sets of tires and one clutch. Taking it on...

Saw a 4 door 64 Fury yesterday. Not a scratch on it and in original paint. Fine looking car I would be proud to drive.

The 318 gets good fuel economy, is powerful enough to cruise at at any speed limit and get you all the speeding tickets you want. At one time, Chrysler said it was their best warranty motor, so it is dependable. Unless it has a miss or burns though oil, I would enjoy it for what it is, and...

When it starts to run ruff, will it smooth out any if you raise the rpm's? Not sure from the description, but the most common ailment is a vacuum leak. Happy to help, ask any time

Not to get nosy, but why? I would assume the engine moving and rubber degradation might cause problems long term. I know repops are available for a lot of cars, or make your own. If you do't have a pattern, use #9 copper wire or coat hanger to make one and brake line from the parts store.