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Yep. Im going to add some aftermarket temp, oil pressure gauges and use the same grommet.

Here ya go.

What am I missing, he's pretty much got it word for word from the GSM?

What model vehicle? My 69 b body is easily accessible under the dash passenger side. I doubt the console would need to be removed.

Most just disconnect the relay without adverse effects. It can be checked with an ohmmeter amd vacuum pump off thr car. Have you taken it apart to inspect?

Unfortunately all that fancy jargon and math didn't provide an answer.

Take a lot of pictures when taking the linkage apart especially of the small springs and their locations. Don't trash the blower resistors, they are hard to find also.

I would keep interior setup and go modern underwood. If you have multiple boxes you should be good for parts. Have heater core rebuilt, buy a new evap.

Well aware of the uses, as we apply around 100 wagons a year on corn ground. No, its not cheap, but it is effective. In the real world application it is very dangerous. Even with a thorough bleeding process there is plenty of residual gas to harm when working under a toolbar replacing sheared...

AA is not cheap and very hazardous. Just ask the family involved in the accident earlier this year down the road from you in TTown. Can't imagine a shadetree opening up a system full of AA with no protection.

Appears there is a rag stuffed in the hole for the original water control valve, so you have no control of the hot water. I put a Pex ball valve in both my heater hoses and remove the handles. They take up less space and look cleaner

Fix it. Heatervalves.net

Removing the 3 small sheet metal screws from the outer housing is the correct method. Its still a SOB to get off. Gentle but forceful prying around the outer edge to firewall area will finally break it loose. Work on it a bit, take a break and come back and try again.

You really need a constant source of vacuum. A hand pump will not get the job done.

I had issues checking mine with a vacuum pump but it worked fine when hooked up. I concluded that my pump could not constsntly supply the volume of vacuum needed to make the actuators work properly. Putting your thumb over the plug is really only checking the input line and nothing else.

If you have the tube's going to both sides, the 3rd picture is what you need to connect everything.

I would replace the condenser and drier. Charge it up and check performance before replacing more parts. If fitting was compromised, refrigerant likely leaked causing your poor cooling.

You're not missing anything. Those two pieces just fit together, piece on left button up against center vent. Pretty sloppy fit.

That part is not reproduced and they are a bit hard to find in good condition, but they are out there.

Send to Glen Ray for rebuild