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Take a lot of pictures when taking the linkage apart especially of the small springs and their locations. Don't trash the blower resistors, they are hard to find also.
I would keep interior setup and go modern underwood. If you have multiple boxes you should be good for parts. Have heater core rebuilt, buy a new evap.
Well aware of the uses, as we apply around 100 wagons a year on corn ground. No, its not cheap, but it is effective. In the real world application it is very dangerous. Even with a thorough bleeding process there is plenty of residual gas to harm when working under a toolbar replacing sheared...
AA is not cheap and very hazardous. Just ask the family involved in the accident earlier this year down the road from you in TTown. Can't imagine a shadetree opening up a system full of AA with no protection.
Appears there is a rag stuffed in the hole for the original water control valve, so you have no control of the hot water. I put a Pex ball valve in both my heater hoses and remove the handles. They take up less space and look cleaner
Removing the 3 small sheet metal screws from the outer housing is the correct method. Its still a SOB to get off. Gentle but forceful prying around the outer edge to firewall area will finally break it loose. Work on it a bit, take a break and come back and try again.
I had issues checking mine with a vacuum pump but it worked fine when hooked up. I concluded that my pump could not constsntly supply the volume of vacuum needed to make the actuators work properly. Putting your thumb over the plug is really only checking the input line and nothing else.
I would replace the condenser and drier. Charge it up and check performance before replacing more parts. If fitting was compromised, refrigerant likely leaked causing your poor cooling.
The only normal operational change between MAX AC and AC is the fresh air door position. In MAX the fresh air door is closed, only allowing cabin air in, in AC the fresh air door is opened to allow outside air into the evaporator. The position of the bypass valve or water valve does not...
You can delete it. It is designed to turn the compressor on for a short period when heat or defrost is first turned on to reduce condensation. They are pretty simple so if it works I'd just leave it though.