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Well, im hoping limiting the amount of parts swapped will help me out with the whole questionable parts thing. Im pretty much just swapping pistons and bearings if they need replaced. Thought process is hopefully if they're already running alright now, they'll run alright when I disassemble and...

I'm gonna be doing that, going to mo power madness in bleak hopes someone else has pistons used that would work for me, and also seeing if anyone could help me at the next chicago mopar connection chapter meet but either way im gonna FAFO and hopefully not break anything major along the way...

Well, sounds like I'm in for new shafts, would you say its better to buy the individual shafts, or would it just be worthwhile to get the whole side cover assembly? Also, is the 70 and earlier ball and detent style of side cover better than the 71 interlock style? I've seen some things online...

Sounds like something not that hard, I hate removing those g clips though, absolute hell under the car for me

Well, I dont think it is. Its done this time and time again, from when I had old shift levers in and the new ones when I first installed them and they were tight, I definitely think it exacerbated the issue though To further help you guys understand a bit more too, I can have a friend record...

So, was able to finally get a cam under and record. Holy hell i need loctite on those bolts, that probably contributes a good bit to my issue. I tightened them down when I replaced the forks very snugly. Second thing, after recording the video, it now doesn't have that lip anymore. I dont get...

Its a 5 gram difference, with the l2316f being heavier than what I have now. I've done research here and on FABO, and watched videos on it. It would be less than a 1% bobweight change, so it should be okay is what I've gathered. They're my pistons but with a 1.840 compression height instead of...

Crosspost from FABO, sorry if not allowed or if you've already read it have a 71 340 that's in need of a rebuild, I'm just unsure and kind of worried about doing it myself. It has already been freshly rebuilt, but the guy who last did it mixed and matched parts, it has 30 over stock replacement...

Yeah, seems like its coming to pulling the trans. Oh well, hopefully pulling the motor soon for a rebuild if I can get some help from someone more experienced near Chicago, might as well take a look then. I also might just swap the side cover for the older ball and detent style, as I've heard...

No, but the old shifter was also pretty sloppy so not sure sure The lip is when it's moving into 3rd I dont know what to expect when I pull off the side cover, can I just pop it out with everything in neutral? Is there anything that's gonna shoot at me aside from the obvious trans fluid? When...

It's a new hurst competition plus, rebuilt transmission, shift levers on the trans are new, rods are used but look good. I just dont know? Is it that it's so new that it's still kinda tight? It's only maybe 2000 miles on the trans and everything, 500 on the shifter. Might try shortening the rods...

I actually haven't. What do you mean by linkage rod binding issue?

Well, I ended up replacing my shift levers, because one of them wasn't even for the right model, and when I replaced the linkage lever it felt like there was no slop at all in it.

Well 1st to 2nds fine, but I have to baby the 2nd to 3rd shift, like as in move it over I guess and go in straight on 3rd, not like how i can kinda go directly from 2nd to 3rd like I can in my 6 speed jeep or literally any other manual car, even with the same hurst shifter. I can provide another...

So, I've been chasing when I can on my time off my shifter linkage issue, where it sticks when trying to shift 2nd to 3rd. I've tried readjusting per the hurst shifter, even with the specialty tool to no avail. I still have this lip on 3rd, I think this might be related to it not wanting to...

So I should be good to unscrew and just remove all of the linkage so I can attach my microswitch, correct?

It's the linkage to the left of what I've circled. The part I've circled doesn't even make contact

hi, installing the microswitch and this linkage is blocking the mounting. Looks like remnants of a choke linkage, it doesn't do anything or touch anything, just rotates with the throttle. I don't have a choke, am I good to remove it to allow mounting of my microswitch? 4150 mechanical secondaries

Okay, that's making more sense and is definitely a better safeguard against failure of parts. Leaning out isn't killing it, detonation is, if it leans out because of a failure of something but the timing isnt too far advanced, just means loss of power

Well, I certainly try to build knowledge, instead of going in blind to something you can't mess up if you want to keep everything intact.