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440 is fine though heavier. No replacement for displacement. To be clear, a stroker based on a 400 is the best option for big blocks of any flavor. Largest standard bore of all three.
FYI, 1968 383 pistons were positive deck height as proved by the image below. My '68 Coronet had the matching...
I'm personally not a fan of 383s and don't get why anyone would chose to use one save for a numbers-matching deal. I certainly wouldn't put one in favor of any 340 nor spend a dime to rebuild one to stock specs.
Based on my own direct experience, I had a basically stock one in a '68 Coronet 4...
Are you just wanting to check for leaks/set timing or are you trying to seat the rings? By itself, a run stand will not set the rings properly since there needs to be a load to accomplish that properly.
The blurb below is from Mahle, the piston and ring manufacturer. It's directly from their...
When I had my '65 Belvedere post car I leaded the mirror post holes shut and planned on using one of those clip-on peep mirrors for street driving. It can be removed easily enough should the need arise.
Dakota and Durango were similar but swapping PCMs between different vehicles is really not the best idea. They are programmed by the VIN. You need a scan tool to properly change the PCM. 2002 would be a DRB. Not sure if anyone still uses a DRB or if the latest scan tool has all the old stuff...
Converting to EFI is not worth the expense or aggravation if you don't have the desire to tinker with stuff regularly. The plug'n'play advertising ropes a lot of people in but the truth is it's not for everyone. EFI won't magically improve anything just by virtue of bolting it on. If you're not...
I get all that, sure. I was into it far enough where I was making changes on the fly. My buddy makes fun of me for driving around with a laptop. I love that part of it though and it seems like you do do too. I think a lot of guys are content to just let the ECU do it's thing though which is fine...
Well glad you got that part figured out. I apologize for the rant but updating the firmware should be the first thing you do. That's basic stuff.
Beyond the firmware, it's still not clear what your guy was trying to adjust or why. Was there a problem when he test drove it? If the car is...
I'm sorry but I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with that.
I respond to a lot of these threads because the prevailing attitude seems to blame the electronic aspect of the systems when the real issue is operator or installer error. 9 times out of 10 problems arise because of half-assed...
Complete and utter bullshit - no Holley EFI product that I know of produces or "throws" OBD II-type error codes. Plus, the likelyhood of the same customer receiving 2 "bad" Snipers in a row is slim to none. Sounds like your guy is struggling and is blaming the part. We've all been there but when...
I bought the H.S. "E" rockers for my TF 2450s just to remove any doubt about whether they will work.
What part # are the Mancini-brand rockers that fit the TF heads? I might return the H.S. set if they are the same thing just without the needle bearings. They list a few varieties but unless I...
A few years back AndyF did a whole rocker arm comparison for the TF heads.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/trying-find-extra-power-rocker-arm-testing/
I'm not sure if anything has changed with other manufacturer's rocker arms since then but from what I gathered the H.S. provide the best...
Trying to drill the crank is an exercise in futility.
Cutting the tip of the input shaft is not a big deal and is a reasonable solution to an age old problem. It will be OK.
LOL. Exactly. I wouldn't call it wimping out - it's just coming to the realization that there is a better method.
Before cutting the input shaft I showed in my earlier post, I tried to drill out the crank register but threw in the towel after about 20 min. of getting nowhere and destroying a...