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that could be one reason the plugs look like that no vacuum advance. not enough timing at cruising speed.

are you sure 38* total with vacuum hose off. what carb are you running?

if it is 5670-6 that is too cold. what is your timing set at ? It looks like you could bump it up a little. if you have the right plug and the right timing you need to lean it out. they are way too rich.

looks good for idle and cruising but to check wide open throttle you need to cut it open.

comp cams have solid rollers as small as [email protected] with 256 advertise duration

how long did you run it ?

before you check your camshaft I would do a compression test for the health of the engine plus it will help pick a different cam if you need one.

I would find out what cam you have in there now and go from there. where does your engine not make power low end or top end or both. do you have power brakes.

should be at 103 that is where they want it. they want it 6* advance must be for more bottom end.

answered a post about the negatives of a split duration cam when the exhaust has a lot more duration than the intake duration.

nice street cam .500 lift on a 108 LSA to make it turn on faster. little rougher idle than stock because of the 108 LSA.

stock specs

negatives less vacuum less bottom end. hemi needs lots of gear for stop light to stop light they were almost like a small block and had to get the rpms up to make power. they were getting beat a lot on the street unless they had lots of gear and good tuning and a dist recurve.

the stock 1970-1971 hemi cam had 226 or 227 or 228 intake and exhaust @.050. Chrysler said 228* comp cams say 227* and Schneider cams say 226*. it was on a 112 LSA with 106 centerline they all agree on that. I think the 6* advance was to help the bottom end. The lift was 490 intake and 480 exhaust.

the bad part of the first cam is it has too much spread between intake and exhaust duration that the hemi does not need.

i would never run that last cam unless you're only going to the drag strip.

I would think the oil pump relief valve was sticking and not the filter.

how do you remove the lower door hinge on a 67 coronet. can I just leave the top hinge on and unbolt the bottom hinge ? I know I have to take the inside kick panel off.

I would try 1 3/4 turns. never run hyd lifters with no preload.

you should be able to tell something by just brake torquing it how the converter feels.