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With a temperature/dewpoint spread usually 70 degrees apart...no need for dehumidifing at all! Lol
HVAC system for living area of the house actually has a humidity ADDER!
Most of the units I have come across (Mitsubishi, Toshiba, Pioneer) all are shipped with charged condenser, evaporator and lines.
120v isn't going to cut it...this I know. At one point I was considering a pair of 15ks, one on each side of the garage. But sizing up to a 220v system makes alot...
Anyone in the desert SW have a mini-aplit AC in their garage?
I'm considering one...and probably a DIY project...except for the electrical...(they come pretty set up lately).
3 car roughly 25x32 with a 9.5' ceiling.
I'm coming up with like 24k for BTUs.
Any experience welcomed
Morrison Machine in Glendale (also a waiting list for block work)
Kelly's Machine in Phoenix (good rep for general work..just a little slow)
Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the insight..
Intension with this is 80% street brawler 20% Firebird Raceway.
For heads I have a set of Eddy RPMs cut to about 73cc....and a set of 906s which will need attention (they're fresh but from a 2bbl 383 single spring). There is also a set of fresh DC Stage IVs with...
The aluminum flywheel makes sense on a 90% track car...not so much for the street.
Not in AZ anyway..
I was planning to use the AP bellhousing, as is will fit an 833 and the tkx.
I appreciate the forethought and the info....and this is not my first time dipping my toe into BBMs.
I got most of the 6500RPM piss and vinegar out of my system over 30 years ago.
Back then I had a 69 RR 440/a833/ 4.56 that ran 10.99s all day. Heck the winnings from street racing put me through...
About to pull trigger on a TKX...90% street.
Is a dual disk "really" worth another $1300 over a single disk? Longevity? Precision?
This will be hydraulic actuated behind a moderate aluminum headed 383...with a stroker 440 about 3 years out.
3.73 rear with 28" tires.
Also what I am gleaning...