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One of the attempts, I had found the amp gage isolator broken and I made a piece out of rubber and tried it but still had the short. This time I bought and installed a new Amp gage with a perfect isolator, thinking this was the problem. I was hoping someone could tell me how to bench test the...

Can anyone think of a way to test a complete dash panel/ cluster before installing it to make sure it is not shorted anywhere? I’m specifically talking about a 62-3 dash panel. I have built a new dash cluster for my 62 but every time I try to install it I get a short from something. I have tried...

Agggg, another loose wire. Black wire to the ignition switch had pulled loose…

Got one, I’m trying to make sense of it…

No power to either the black or red wire at the flasher plug…. Also found that my wipers aren't working - and they are connected by the black wire. Black wire from the flasher goes to a junction where a line comes off the the wiper switch and another that goes to the ignition switch. Does the...

You know, I used hand signals coming home the other night but it also occurred to me that I bet very few people on the roads know what they mean anymore. I could just see someone running into me no knowing…

Back to the flashers though - is it normal to have resistance across the thermal flasher and none across the electronic? Any conceivable problems using the electronic one in this car?

Thanks panora, I’ll give it a try. Nothing I hate worse than electrical problems under the dash. I’m too old and fat to get under the dash and it’s a pain to keep taking the seat in and out…

That’s a simple enough test for the flasher. Never thought of that. I’ll try it tomorrow, although I am suspecting one of the other two possibilities…. Any suggestions for testing the switch in place?

Yet another electrical gremlin in my 62 Fury. First time out this year and no turn signals (none at all). Thought for once it might be something simple so i picked up a new flasher… Thought id try an electronic flasher instead of the old thermal. No luck, still no signal lights. Bench checked...

I’ve bought from them several times. No issues

Since I started this question, I’m inclined believe that up to the change to unibody construction in 62 the older mopars had body painted firewalls with blacked out inner fenders and radiator supports. Black cars of course excluded from the generalities. Anyone concur?

Not specifically BBody related but recently ive been looking at a lot of older Mopars and noticed a lot of black engine bays. When did Ma Mopar switch to body color bays? Was it with the unibody change in 62?

I suspect the same. It’s easy enough to run a wire to the dash frame to ground it too. In part I guess I was wondering it any ignition switch needs to be grounded? They work just hanging from the harness so I think not?

On the left an OEM starter switch. On the right is a new NAPA “exact fit” switch. Aside from the new one needing to be modified to fit in the dash properly-it has a ground spade circled in red. The oem doesn’t have a ground spade. Does this new one need to be grounded by wire or does it ground...

I have a single point coming from Halifaxhops. I’m not 100% certain it will take care of my problem as I’m not sure something else isn’t going on. Going to check today to see if I keep 12v going to the ballast resistor while cranking…

I’ve replaced the coil and condenser and points.curious what others think about this ballast resistor? It reads correct while cold but what does this condition do while hot?

Didn’t help

Well, it wasn’t the wire. Tried a known good secondary and it also measured OL on the bench.. Found that my meter has separate modes for continuity and resistance. Both wires are around 6.5ohm… BUT, I did find this. The wire coil is still intact, although stretched and the center insulation is...

Any chance it could be a main coil to distributor wire that measures OL when testing resistance …..? Almost new set of wires that I got from Mopar Mall… Never would have thought to check a new wire ….