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Does anyone know if this is the factory intake gasket for my 1968 Plymouth 383 2 barrel? I'm just curious if this engine has been apart before. When I unbolted the 8 bolts on the intake, it was loose, didn't seem like it was sealed at all. I'm replacing the factory 2 barrel intake and carb with...

I'll take it. PM sent!

I'll take them. PM sent.

Driver quality is fine. Any color is fine. Thanks.

Got it! I found a Diablo Steel Demon blade at the hardware store and was able to cut the bolt on each side. Not sure what grade of bolt the factory put in there, probably grade 5. That's what I'm gonna replace it with. Now, onto the other side! Thank you to all the members for your suggestions...

I wish I could get a hammer on it, that's what it needs, but here's not enough room. I'm gonna drop the tank, that may give me enough room to hit with a hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll have the tank out and I'm gonna use the nuclear option (torch it). I'm done.

Unfortunately, it's full. I may have to remove the tank if I'm gonna use the acetylene option, which I haven't ruled out yet! Yes.

Yep, looks like they left the shock bracket and shocks in place and welded the trunk floor from above. Probably used the shocks to hold it in place. Love the air chisel idea, I think I can get that in there. Thank you!

I might have to pull the fuel tank!

After removing the nut from the upper shock bolt, I assumed it would slide out or maybe need a little persuasion with a pry bar. Nope, it's stuck in there and I've tried unscrewing it, used a crow bar to push on it and now my sawzall blade is bouncing off the bolt. Any suggestions? I can see why...

I need these for my Charger. I'll take them. PM sent.

I'll take it. PM sent.

Looking for a set of front (amber) and rear (red) angled/curved marker lights. Driver quality is okay, some mild imperfections on the chrome would be acceptable. I have one rear light that's covered in primer, so I might be able to take some thinner to it and reuse it in a pinch. I don't need...

I looked at that but I need the LH side. Appreciate the gesture!

Looking for a headlight door for my 1968 Charger. Doesn't have to be perfect. Driver condition would probably work. 1968 may be different than 1969 so please make sure it's from a 1968 Charger. Thanks.

Update: I removed both LCA's and found the bushings in the worst condition possible. The driver side didn't have a rubber bushing left, it was just the metal sleeve over the pivot pin. To make things worse, the pivot tube had broken free from the K frame and it fell out when I removed the LCA...

Awesome!!

Thank you for the info! I've got a welder and will check into those reinforcing plates. Those LCA's turned out fantastic. Did you powder coat those?

Just as a precaution. My factory elevator bolts work fine, but when I lowered the car to take the tension off the torsion bars, the passenger side bolt wouldn't completely unscrew, so it's still in the LCA. Probably be okay to reuse, but I found some new ones on evilBay and bought them. I'll...

I ordered new bushings, new pivot shafts and new torsion bar adjusting bolts. I researched the QA1 LCA's and found that on a 1968 Charger, you have to buy a QA1 K frame and the QA1 front sway bar for the arms to fit! No thanks, I'll rebuild mine! Your Belvedere looks awesome!