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the flywheel was replaced when the clutch was changed. old flywheel looked like it had some heat checking.

anyone have anything to say about Mcleod clutches/

i could probably get this done. it would be nice to see if it would confirm something causing this. the only, what i think is a problem, is i have a few days to order and get free pickup from the transmission shop when i am at Carlisle.

removed transmission for the 3rd time and removed the clutch assembly. it looks practically brand new. don't drive that much each season and it has 4 seasons on it, so maybe a little less than a 1000 miles. pilot bushing shows no sign of excessive wear. did a little searching for others...

right now with all this issues, if i decide to get a new clutch which brand should i try. car is 1969 road runner 440 6bbl. engine was built to hopefully make 550 hp at crank ( no dyno to back that up )

it is a centerforce dual friction clutch (diaphram style). i (with the help of my daughter) attempted to do and extreme clutch adjustment. throw out bearing is making contact with fingers on clutch. what is seem to notice is once i get to about 3/32 of a gap, i can not get the gap to...

if i am rolling backwards to come out of garage or onto the street, as long as the car is moving i can get into gear. if i stop moving then try to get into first or any gear it will not go. if i stop engine, then i can get into gear.

i will give that a try.

this problem seemed to come out of nowhere. had that setup in car since 2019

this just starting happening at the end of last cruise season. four speed manual. can shift gears no problem with car not running. car running not moving can't get it into gear. if car is moving no problem shifting. checked the shifter lever alignment and free play for clutch. have had...

so with the limited supply of copper/brass heater cores available, is it ok to use aluminum heater core? you really won't see it to notice. will the purists give it a thumbs down?

get in contact with this person and see if he can help you with what you need. Joe’s Mopar Distributor Restoration | Facebook

remove set screw. spray your favorite penetrating lube. grab the end of motor shaft with a good pair of vice grips. holding the vice grips, grab around the outside edge of fan and gently start to try and twist it back and forth and pushing towards the motor. it should start to move and once...

this is what i have.

the caps on the idle mixture screws are already removed. what are the nylon bushings you mentioned?

anyone have a source for a bushing kit for the 2300 series carbs? have what i consider to be too much movement on the throttle shaft. trying to fix idle problems.

the carbs i had were pretty rough and just about anything would be an improvement. also, like i mentioned before, i did not have a good experience with the Promax replacement.

i have to ask, what small screw are you talking about? is this on the end carb or center carb base plate?

i did not. that piece is in the spare parts tote. bought 2 new base plates complete from Holley. i tried to get it squared away to enjoy the ease of adjusting rear carb. in the end, for me, it worked better to figure away to adjust a stock base plate, hence the making of the tool.