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Hemi Orange is red, Vitamin C is orange.

I assume a 73 has a cable? If so try lubing it. It's easy on a 69 and might fix it.

I think the thermal clutches are readily available from auto parts stores. I can't say how close to the OEM look they are. But someone on here will chime in with that info.

I think the proper way to say that is a/c cars use a thermal fan clutch. That's that spring you see on the front of the clutch. I think it locks tighter when hot for the a/c. High Performance cars use a viscous drive fan to limit the rpm's for performance, noise and safety.

You look legit!

Ok, good, I learned something. I have a couple of 70 Road Runner carbs I think and saw the 4 digit dates and thought they were replacement carbs. I knew my 65 Race Hemi carbs were 404 and thought all Holleys were 3 digits until the early 70's.

I thought Holley date codes were 3 digits when that car was made. I think all 4 digit Holleys were made after that car.

What is the build date of your engine? I would assume you would want it a month or 2 before that?

China and youtube. Those are the 2 game changers. 50 years ago when I started there's no way you could afford a set of Starrett micrometers. They cost as much as the car you are driving. Now we have Harbor Freight and 100 Chinese companies making special tools that a hobbyist can afford. (People...

Yes, I would love reading through those. I'll PM my info.Thanks

Well, that would still be pretty wonderful.

It looks to be in nice condition. Someone can decode it for you. But what you really want, if this is your car, is to contact Chrysler Historical and they will send you everything about the car.

YES, that is what I needed. I thought a casting number starting in 37 would not be a 70 or 71. Thank you for the help. Now I think I can proceed. I have lots of 426 Hemi data but that doesn't help me if I'm working on a 383 from the 70's.

I don't know how to figure out the balance. Just trying to do a stock part build but when you get into a situation where there is cast cranks and they take a different balancer and flexplate and the previous owner has a cast crank and a neutral balancer it becomes very confusing. I'm hoping...

I hope this crank casting number isn't the one that takes a 2 year only balancer. I'm hoping it's a 400 crank so finding a balancer will be easy.

OK, thank you for the info. Now it all makes sense. (I think the guy was stretching the truth when he said it ran good.)

This crank came to me in a 383. It had a neutral balancer on it. The guy said it ran fine. But it's a cast crank and I thought cast cranks had offset weighted balancers. I think it must be a 400 crank. When I research it the results I get are 383 or 400. I realize 383 and 400 cranks fit the same...

I've never heard of this happening. And if you replaced the bad parts would that keep it from happening again? I mean, what caused this. That's what I'm wondering. Lets hope it was a defective part and that replacing the damaged parts will fix it. The cam gear is liable to be damaged also. When...

WOW you want a 400 treadlife? How far do you plan on driving this thing? If you've had it 45 years I get the feeling you're not a spring chicken. I had a 62 Savoy once. I was thinking large diameter bias ply would ride the best but I'm no expert. I had a 64 Dodge once that rode better than new...

He said it runs and drives now. I have no reason to think it needs a roof. If you can get it for a small amount of money I think it's ok. But I wouldn't do a total resto. You can probably buy a pristine 318 Satellite for 1/2 what it would cost to restore this one.