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well only thing I will say is don't use a flat tappet camshaft, they go flat more than not. The duration and center line of the cam you picked is good for your application, but you can convert to a hydraulic roller and with the same duration get over .500 lift and pick up about 40 ft lbs of...

That does seem a little tight. The bolt torque depends on the size of the bolt as well as the grade I don't think those housing studs are harder than grade 5. I have seen misprints on bolt torque in some of the manuals.

Yep, I agree timing is most likely retarded, on my dyno header temps will go up if timing is way slow. I see normal 1200-to-1300-degree exhaust temps on a well-tuned engine about 1 inch from the flange. When they get to about 1600 the tube will start to glow.

I am not a fan of thumper cams never seen one run right. I would pick a hydraulic roller around 230 @ .50 duration and about .530 lift on a 110 centerline

using a vacuum gauge to diagnose worn valve guides is pretty hard. A guide has to be loose enough to cause the valve to rock on the seat. So you should be seeing oil smoke when you start it if the guides are loose. Fluctuations in the needle indicate a valve not sealing, or opening properly...

2618 pistons expand more when hot, .005 is a good clearance in my experience, if they are as tight as you measure it will scuff the skirts. On a racing engine I run them as loose as .007 to keep them from scuffing. Make sure when measuring the piston you do it in the right spot on the skirt...

Depends if are you building stock or race? The Oregon kit is a good choice for a race unit with the red clutches, kevlar band, most of the stock builds I use the alto green clutches. I seldom use a kevlar band for stock rebuilds.

when you drop the valve body it is a piston that sits in the case, you will see it easy.

As mentioned probably has a shift kit in it. And if you can drop the valve body they most likely left the spring out of the accumulator. Putting that spring back in will calm down the harsh shifts in my experience.

If you look at the power flow and the size of the gears 1,2,3rd should take as much as a stock A-833 but I would not power shift into OD that would be the weakest gear on the output .

I have rebuilt transmissions since 1976 and even for me it is tough, because there is more than one way to do things in a valvebody. What I do is save instructions for different shift kits in a binder for reference. usually, the giveaway is the orifice plate in the valve body the holes are...

Just from my experience, and I am semi-retired, but my retirement present to myself was an engine dyno, always wanted one and I have owned and used a flow bench for 20 years. Been building a lot of muscle car engines, mostly stock with small cam, everybody wants a lump at idle and then clean out...

Don't remember all the parts I needed, but yes if you have the output shaft governor, and tailhousing you can build one. I used an electric shift version and changed out the valve bodies as well. Been a couple years ago so I don't remember all the little stuff I had to do. I have one done on...

The biggest bangs for the buck are gears and a torque converter in combination and working together. Never used the cam you mention but if it is a stock short block you have probably low compression. Easy way to tell if you need more compression with that cam is to do a simple cranking...

Just from my experience, buy a cheap valve spring tester. check your springs when new, seat pressure and open pressure. On retesting if there is more than 10% difference between your baseline buy new ones.

727 leaks when sitting, shift shaft lever seal, and dip stick O-ring most common. A front seal seldom leaks when sitting. the pipe plug that hold the band lever can leak but pretty rare. Most common is a pump bolt loose, each bolt has a sealing washer on it and I have seen them back off...

From the pictures I don't see it clear enough to say forged or cast, I never said it was a cast crank, I was referring to the manufacturing process that left the raw edges, those I remove when building an engine. And to get technical the only difference between a cast crank and a forged one is...

as mentioned just normal factory sloppy casting. I personally try and take a die grinder and clean up and round over castings like that when I have an engine all apart helps relief stress risers in the part under load. Of course, I have been wrenching on cars for 50 years and have only seen a...

First thing to try is a weak spring to pull the lever on the transmission forward, especially when using a cable type throttle linkage. All the diesel trucks for example with a factory cable linkage had a spring. Second if that does not work, you said the cable broke and the problem started...

Balancing or making each rod and piston assembly is only the first step. After the assemblies are balanced then the crank must be balanced with those weights. Factory balance is done for the operating range of a stock engine, if you are running more rpm, better balance is a good thing. It is...