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The heat through the intake was for cold drivability only. Designed by the factory so people could start their car cold and within a min or two and drive away.It helped fuel vaporization during warm up. Helped prevent stalling and stumbles. Heat riser's were on production cars long before before...
I just posted this pic in another thread. It's a fresh bottle kill. Damn it was a good one. It was a barrel pick from a favorite store.
If local stores to you have store picks, or barrel picks, don't pass them up. Most stores give samples. Just a sip in a small shot glass but take your time...
Matching the ECU, coil resistance and ballast resistance are all important. @HALIFAXHOPS gave me those specs but I'll be darned if I can find my notes. May be he will be gracious enough to repeat them. I could post them in a sticky so we can find them easier.
I would imagine any auto parts store has what you need. Pico or Dorman Help line are common brands for things like that. Here's a Pico. They have many different styles.
Figure out what you need and place a Parts wanted ad in the Marketplace forums. This is a good informational thread and we don't want it to turn into Lets Make a Deal. Thanks
The only other way to do it on my Polara anyway, would be to separate the rear lamps and have one brake and the other a turn signal on each side. Bypass the brake light portion of the TS switch. Naw, I'll wait for Dan to get some switches in.
I was thinking the same. I need to check if the brake lights both work all the time until I use my turn signal. Got to have brake lights. Turn signals are very important but I can live without them. My car just sits because the lights don't work.