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The lifter valley side of the hemi head is still open and oil from that side goes down the lifter valley. The head is so wide it needs the outer drain backs on the exhaust side or all of the oil in the engine would accumulate in the heads.

It all comes through the lifter valley on both of those blocks

More primer pictures. This is the 2K

Spent the day putting on primer. Used a two part epoxy and followed that with a 2K primer. Long day but got it done.

Final filler detail work. Panel gaps are how I like them. You see lots of variations there, especially with restored and over restored show ponies.

Fenders are coming along… can’t wait to get color on them.

It’s unfortunate when things like this happen for sure. Lots of finger pointing and uncertainty. All we can do is learn and move on.

As discussed in multiple other cam threads, everyone blames the parts but never look for the root cause. Valve spring pressure and rate, coil bind, pushrod length, size, material and wall thickness, bore clearance and oiling among other things all factor into the equation. I’ve yet to experience...

DVW has it correct. Your block was honed with a torque plate. Depending on the gasket used with it, and the blocks cylinder wall and deck thickness, you’ll see quite a bit of bore distortion when they’re bolted on. The bore is perfectly straight once done, but distorts back when the plate is...

No tail light Wednesday

Grab them with a pair of pliers and turn them 90 degrees.

Yes, the plan is to definitely add a wing to the trailer as well.

After clear coat

Yep. Petty Blue. Should go great with its Limelight stable mate.

And it’s blue

Ready to spray some color.

I’ve got a 446 cubic inch RB with 240 Trick Flows and a solid roller cam ready to go minus push rods and rockers, but no low deck engines. I’m in central IL.

Mine has two part epoxy underneath the rust oleum. It’ll outlast me. I wasn’t going to waste the effort and cost on base/clear body color paint when the cheap stuff will do.

We used inexpensive Rustoleum on this one, mixed with a little hardener and reducer.

Yes, they’re a consumable. Every year at a minimum is typical. We’ve found tips and tricks to extend wear, like bearings and shims underneath, but they’re definitely a wear item.