Search results for query: alternator bypass

The vast majority of the info I’ve posted in the videos and typed out over the years, here and on other forums, is about understanding/retaining the stock ammeter functionality. There are some modified situations where the ammeter is not well suited or supported, as with Dakota Digital cluster...

Yikes, that’s what’s become known as the “shunt wire” bypass, very dangerous for an all-stock system as it circumvents the designed circuit protection for all stock unfused wiring. With it in place it will also disable most of any ammeter response as charging current is routed across the shunt...

That’s a great tech synopsis

Any progress? Troubleshooting, I like to isolate / remove the parts of the system when there is intermittent problems. The external fuel system with electric pump to the carb isolates the engines fueling to just the car itself. If you disconnect the alternator, voltage regulator, and other...

Wanted to provide a quick update as there was a lot of responses to my question. First off, crackbacks headlamp relay kit fixed my light issue. My dud alternator did not have enough juice to keep them on however. I wound up going with a 65amp alternator from Napa that has a lifetime warranty. I...

Sometimes, aftermarket or dealer installed A/C SYSTEMS use either YORK or Borg-Warner or Tecumseh 2 cylinder units. They use a unique valve hose assembly called a ROTO-LOC, and not the typical Mopar setup with Schrader type access valves. The Sunden type unit will require different mounting...

Thank you so much! It looks like.. if I understand this all right, which I think I do.... A) The factory alternator wiring will stand as it will feed the horn relay (violet) and "splice 1" (black) of the dash harness. However, I will add a fused #6 from the battery positive over to the...

Stock wiring? If these described added loads are not directly connected to the battery while running a stock charging system that includes the ammeter, connected instead to the alternator, there will be little impact to the stock wiring while the vehicle is in operation. Takes little effort to...

Troubleshooting steps (all measurements taken with engine running): 1 - disconnect the regulator output "FLD" wire that goes to the alternator. The alternator should not charge, and no voltage should be seen at the alternator field connection. This will make sure the harness has not been...

Good to read the relay kit helped. The increase in alternator amps really isn't for the max output. Usually the low rpm output levels are increased. As others have mentioned, you want an alternator that puts out adequate energy at idle to allow all the requested power to be satisfied, WITHOUT...

Main ignition power. Check for shorts at alternator and dash Ammeter. Check if fusible link burnt. If the short happened while the engine was running, the fusible link just stops Battery power, but not the Alternator power. On some of my cars, with high output alternators, I bypass the dash...

:lol:

Was Ammeter not working?

Is it possible to do the bypass but add two leads up to the ammeter? That way would the ammeter still work without all the strain on it.

The “push” occurs when a car has been sitting, which a lot of these cars are not being driven daily. The cranking will lower the battery charge and the newer high amperage alternators will deliver higher current than the wiring was designed to handle. Couple that with the deterioration of the...

I get that, it’s a load dependent piece of equipment just like you explained. The problem is at idle 850 rpm it goes to discharge with only the ignition being used, no other loads placed on the system, no fan, lights etc. the alternator I ordered claims 100 amp and more than 30 amps at idle, so...

If you’re worried about the amp gauge getting hot and falling, the easiest way to bypass it is to take one lug off, and put them both on one stud. But yeah… the bulkhead connection is a bad design, even when new with the 35 amp alternator. I had a ‘69 Fury I PK41H9 VIN, Police package that the...

You DIDN'T "Bypass the Ammeter" I PRAY! These KIDS are FUBAR with that crap. Amperage Is KEY. Just sayin.

I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think). I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance...

It all depends on what you're doing with the car. Unless you're adding loads to the system (electric fuel pump/fan/water pump, more lighting, hot stereo/amp etc) then the factory wiring is fine IF it's in good shape. Check the connections and feel the wiring to make sure it isn't stiff or...