Search results for query: alternator bypass

I remember seeing this discussion before and now I had to remove the dash... should I just plug the black/red together and bypass the gauge? Car was on fire once, don't want it to happen again. :) Thanks.

You are building up excess resistance. Most likely the alternator is overworking the underrated wiring. The system was never designed for the larger output alternator. You are going to have to make some changes. This always brings on debates. Myself I would run a dedicated alternator battery...

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I’m having an issue with the mechanical voltage regulator, I cleaned the grounds, checked the contacts and spring tension and I can only get it to charge sometimes at idle and almost never at higher rpm (1100+) When I bypass the regulator the alternator charges fine from what I can tell Any ideas

On my ’63, think the police/fleet package did bypass the BH back then. Yeah, not the best setup, but mfg’s didn’t make them to last half a century or half that. I may have added extra toast to the BH when installing an electronic ignition 25-years ago, not sure but the install required a higher...

I'm replacing the low 36-42 amp alternator on my 62 Plymouth with a factory square back 78 amp unit. What updating to the wiring harness should done. I will be using a stock mopar electronic VR. Also should I continue to use the 62 factory AMP gauge ? or bypass it ? I could use a wiring...

Direct alternator to battery by-pass, or “shunt wire” by-pass? Better hope you never experience a short in any of the stock un-fused wiring, things will burn. By-passes the stock designed circuit protection (fusible link) as well.

Sounds like a broken wire somewhere shorting to ground....just my opinion.

Thanks! Follow up question - I did a basic ammeter bypass years ago (100A in-line fuse from alternator I believe ?), so my ammeter doesn’t “really” work anymore. Should I still tap into the alternator???

Yes, you can join them and bypass the ammeter. Use a bolt. Seal, tape them up really well. I then also run another wire outside direct from the alternator to the battery lead to remove the majority of power running through those wires inside. It will take the easiest / shortest path. The loose...

Black is the accessory feed from the ignition switch. Better hope you never experience a short in any of the unfused wiring or components, a lot of wires will burn before a 200 amp fuse blows with that bypass in place.

Agreed, this level added loads along with a high powered alternator should really have complete up-sized charge path wiring bypassing the bulkhead Packard terminals, a fleet bypass at a minimum.

Sounds like a York compressor. The clutch pulley should spin free. Then power energizes the coil and the compressor is engaged. Usually you cannot bypass the AC compressor with a shorter belt for alt and crank, but this is aftermarket so it may be doable. The car can be driven with the...

What’s the concern with the ammeter? The Packard terminals in the charge path bulkhead connector are by far the weakest link in the original design. The earlier screw terminals pictured above are a better design but would not apply to a ’69. Better off bypassing the Packards or doing the fleet...

Ok but by doing this does it affect the dash gauges

I just started watching your video series.. 1,2,&3 done.. they are terrific! I am adding a 1-wire 100amp alternator, dual electric fans, electric headlight door motors from Topher, and Dakota Digital gauges.. I'll also likely be adding an aftermarket radio (or having my stock radio modernized)...

How did we ever get by way back when? It seems like there is a generation here that has to have LED lights, digital led dash instruments, bypass the bulkhead connector, direct this, pass that, and then, I have to have a truck alternator to power all of the add ons. Sometimes I just wonder...

My amp meter has been acting erratic for the last month. Reading high, then reading nothing, then reading Discharge then reading normal. When I read the charge with a meter, the voltage output is steady and consistent while the amp meter is moving around. The vr is new, the alternator is new and...

Ok.. sorry to jump in here and revisit a fun subject.... but I am confused.. I have a 1 - wire alternator from 440 source. I understand the field wire gets capped and is no longer used.. However, I am confused on what to do with the two wires that are together on the original ring terminal. One...

Its highly likely that you were sold a newer "rebuilt" square back unit....that would require one (of the two field brushes to be grounded) especially if you only have one field wire connection to the original alternator....a green wire. (If it's a dual field and one field is not grounded, it...