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A/C or no a/c? If no a/c, I've heard many say a quality aluminum 22" will cool what you have. But so many variables. Water pump size n blades, w/p to crank pulley ratio, coolant ratio, waterWetter, typical ambient air temps.
The WaterWetter causes a chemical reaction of sorts that creates the pressure. I experienced this with the Kool It product. It did seem to cause an etching effect on the casting and I noticed there isn't any rust in the cooling system. Looks like a good thing. After awhile it stopped doing...
I have noticed an odd condition in my radiator. 512 in motor with a be cool radiator/cap/resovior. I run distilledd water and waterwetter only as this is primarily a track car. After normal operation, if the car sits for a week there will still be pressure in the radiator when I remove the...
...min after shutting off. Upper hose, warm to hot. Heater valve open. Good heat from heater. Coolant violently boiling? Coolant: water w. WaterWetter for race track requirements. January: Changed t-stat from 195 to Motorad 206-180 and verified that the 195 has been installed correctly. SOS...
Is your boat keel cooled (seperate heat exchanger) or direct cooled (cooled with the water the vessel is in)? It makes a significant difference as keel cooling acts like a radiator, as the engine temperature is more uniform.
BOB RENTON
Shroud and clutch for sure. Electric fans are noisy! I have 2 spal on my cuda and not liking it. Also what coolant are you using? Did you try WaterWetter?
All great points Bob! Thanks for your insight.
The only way to know for sure with my setup is for me to try it and if any new higher RPM issues show up, I can always swap the other pump back in.
Coolant violently boiling but water temperature never gets past 180. That does not make sense. Cant have it both ways. I would verify what the temperature really is.What are you running for water pump, fan and shroud?
...pulley. Thus the reason I run duals, allows the pulley to be in-between the motors
There are a lot of factors that can affect performance and heat gain/dissapation, straight bladed vs curved, waterwetter, vs antifreeze, leaded fuel vs unleaded fuel, advanced vs retarded timing.
Good luck!
I don't recollect the temps Bob - been about 3 years. My dash gauge pert near maxed out shutting it down to cool down and when using a hand-held thermo at the thermostat seemed as though the gauge wasn't far off...220-ish. Didn't take long before watching my gauge get near max maybe a 25 mile...
...any cavitation possibilities. I would also use a 50-50 mix of ethylene glycol and water, without any additives. Remember that a "water wetter" compound is nothing more than an ionic surfactant which reduces the surface tension of the water, just like "FINISH" in your wife's dishwasher...
Due to the heat here, 120°+, I run 50/50 w distilled and 2 bottles of WaterWetter. So far in 105° this yr, 185 t-stat, mechanical fan w shroud on 496, never over 195 in stop n go n never over 186 while steady cruising. Made a damba$$ mistake this morning n stated my car to check the fuel...
...had a March Performance serpentine belt and pulleys on it which is an underdrive system and spins the water pump slower. I tried the waterwetter additive and a few different thermostats and none of them helped much. I had the heater blower on high roasting my feet on more than one occasion...
...for smaller diameter pump n fewer blades for a/c water pump is cavitation. However I use 1.4:1 ratio w a Flowkooler high volume w/p but also use WaterWetter and have had no issues. But when keeping stock, I prefer to go w what the engineers designed which is what the attachment above shows...
Ok I put in a 160 50/50 antifreeze and waterwetter and now the hottest it gets sitting idling is 198 after driving around. It never hit 200 so for now I'm feeling a bit better. Still shifts into 3rd like garbage though and my TTI exhaust is so tight up under car it's just barely touching the...