Search results for query: what oil

Took my 68 Charger R/T out for a drive and the Tach immediately went pegged and never went back. Got to the car gathering location and spent a few hours. Then when I left I notices My tach needle bounced to past 8 and back to 0 and stayed there, my fuel, oil, & temp gauges weren't working, plus...

Vegetable oil I think.

I had a higher than I liked oil pressure with 20w40w oil. Went to a 10w30w and it's much better.

I don't know what the bearing clearances are. I had the machine shop assemble the rotating assembly. Nor does the 440 source website mention whether or not the bearings are grooved. If I idled at 1200, then it would be at a more reasonable pressure.

Any idea what that linkage set-up gained for them? Improved wet sump oil pan? That 8.75" rear was unexpected, hemi/4 speed, 600? Hp 3500 lbs,500 miles :eek:

They require a additive for the gear oil. Unfortunately no longer available the best was from Chrysler and back in the day was made from Whale oil. But Ford and GM still has additive along with part stores that have it.That will lessen the chatter on turns. Do a search for more info on the additive.

Pretty sure there is no oil at exhaust side of the heads where it would leak past a head gasket but that is what it looks like. Any chance the oil came out of the valve covers? Ive seen oil get pushed from front to rear by the cooling fan before. Good luck regardless.

Not sure what it's called, but does that plastic block slide back easily? Had that happen once, spraying some light oil around it fixed the problem for me.

I currently have a fast turn ratio pitman arm on my 73 Charger there is a idler arm on it, how ever the center link is real close to the oil pan on the idler arm side. But has sufficient clearance on on the pitman arm side. I am not sure if the idler arm is the matched arm for the fast turn...

I just use whatever is on sale 10w30 conventional oil in all my classic cars. The seal technology was not what it is today with tighter machined tolerances and newer style o-ring seal gaskets. Synthetic oils will weap in most old school engines.

I've re-read your post because I couldn't initially figure out what you're asking. But I think you're trying to determine whether the oil should shoot out with pressure in a stream as opposed to simply "flow". Let's first discuss the rockers themselves. HS rockers, compared to other brands, are...

It does not have provisions for dip stick.

Hi guys. Have another build on the go. This time a 360 LA 72 block. Without all the details, some brief history is as follows. 10.5:1 KB, all new and machined parts. Block is one that I've had kicking around for some 10+ years. Originally it had 8:1 and mild cam. Was a short block for sure as...

This is what I was thinking, but now that I have my first trap door pan, I don't know how the oil around the pick up may act under hard acceleration. The car carries the wheels up about a whole foot, and then comes down quick, so oil is not always out back. I mean, with a regular deep sump 7 Qt...

So what brand of oil do you use in you engines? I use the Joe Gibbs DRIVEN HR-2 High Zinc 10W-30 and it seems to be good. What do y'all think? Just some pics of my love to enjoy while we discuss this =P

What would be an acceptable sealant to lock the screw in oil pick up tube? Mine is not tight when it is in its proper location. Going another 330 degrees around isn't really going to work either, well, it could, but, the short block assembly, timing cover and water pump housing are all in...

67 charger Can someone tell me what to search for/buy if I need to replace the bushings on the end of the center link/drag link (whatever the correct name is). I have to drop it to put a new gasket on my oil pan. I’ve searched and found things that look right but nothing that specifically says...

I also ordered same pan. What windage tray you use? I have stock and source440, they dont fit

Very strange. Do you see more oil coming out of the rockers when priming since changing the timing set? I’m curious about what you used for a button. Some sit on the front of the gear, some fit in the hole but are stepped, and the step sits on the gear, others fit in the hole and are bottomed...

You oil the parts after doing the black oxide process. After the oxide absorbs the oil you wipe off the excess, but they really don’t feel oily if that’s what you’re asking.