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In my opinion.... it still comes down to the comp ratio you have, and the deck height. That will determine how much cam you CAN use, and how much you SHOULD use. And without that info, we are all just spinning wheels. Check out a comp ratio calculator to find out all the info you need to have to...

It was going in a 440/727/60 Duster, for 90% strip use. Was a beast on the street, .... with 5000 converter, and 4.56.

Duration and cam timing have more effect on piston to valve than lift. At full lift, the piston is WAY down the hole. I made a cutter, out of an old valve, used a drill motor, and an old head as a fixture, and cut my own reliefs. Pick the lift you want, then get the shortest duration you can...

The factory rated compression ratios by Mopar are usually 1/2-1 point optimistic. Your 67 with closed chamber heads was probably closer to 9.5 to 1. Does it still have the standard bore 1967 pistons in it? If not, compression ratio could be anything. For reference, we had a cast piston flat...

Flattops can be anything from 7 1/2 to 11 1/2 compression ratio, depending on stroke and deck height. Do your pistons have valve reliefs? How far down the hole are they? We would need the accurate comp ratio (NOT what Chrysler or the piston manufacturer claims!) to begin to make a cam...

Just now re-read your first post. Are the source heads you're planning on using closed chamber? What cc?

I have a later build Eddie 440 Sixpack manifold, and the machining and core shift is gruesome. Wouldn't surprise me a bit if it needs some correction. The trouble is finding a machinist that can do it, and KNOWS what he's doing.

Yeah, I'd like to have the gasket diameter closer to the bore size, but I'd look first for the thickness I want. Time to do some calculations to find how much available gaskets affect the comp ratio. I've always used the Wallace calculators, and without actual measurements of the heads, I use...

If I were you.... I'd use the fattest head gasket (within reason) I could find (no quench to lose with a 906 head), a new bathtub, and use both gaskets that come with it. The fat head gasket will take the place of the material removed, and lower the compression ratio a bit, so you can maybe use...

You were probably in front to 1300 feet.

Thanks, that 'splains it. Still had to be close, even with your "off" pass. And looks like he was all out too (almost 150 mph!)

I'm sorry, I don't understand. He was quicker by 4, your light was better by 6. You should have won the round.

That sounds like a very viable solution. I looked up reman 318 shortblocks, found one for just under $1000, I like what you found a lot better.

The biggest show I know of here in the tri-state az area, keeps getting smaller and smaller. The nicest show, put on by a church in Havasu for a good cause, keeps getting bigger. I honestly don't know if either is a judged show. I just go to look at cars. (And entertain my dog.)

My 33 has won a few shows, but not ever again. I'm too lazy and old to bother doing the prep to take a "show car" to a car show. I do enjoy going to car shows now, cause I can walk through the show, look at cars, and talk to people, and leave when I want. But it seems I talk to more people at...

That's a BIG BLOCK head?!? Sure doesn't look like any bbm head I've ever seen. Looking at the port pics, I thought it was a W2 small block head.

Please! Don't cut up a nice original hood for a hoodscoop! Replacing it with a hinged glass hood is the best solution, imo.

You want the stud cool, and the nut warm. The nut will expand more, off a cool stud, less tension holding the nut on.

Most of the aftermarket 6pak hoods don't have as much underhood reinforcement as a real one.(more clearance) Gkent's vfn looks like just what you need. Edit: notice there is a relief for his Aircleaner in the rear brace.

There are special sockets for removing rounded-off fasteners.