Search results for query: *

I don't think there is ANY new programming .

I'd bet that the best thing you could do for fuel mileage, after sorting out your current problem, would be a vacuum advance distributor. Mechanical pump only putting out 3lbs at 3000? I think I would consider an electric pump.

Firing Frieburger and Dulcich is what ruined motor trend TV. I've got 60 or so Engine master shows on dvr, NOTHING since the firing. I think I might have spent a half hour on MTTV once, about two weeks ago.

Be careful of octane boosters. When they say "increases x amount of points", some mean point points. Say it says five points. It doesn't mean a 91 goes to 96. It means it goes to 91.5

One of my Imps:

Yep. Only factory aluminum heads I know of prior to 72 would be the incredibly rare sbc, big block chevy, and Hemi. All of those were high performance versions, and would have needed good seats. I'm not sure when aftermarket aluminum sbc heads showed up, but I bet they had good seats from day...

Hard seats in any aluminum head. So no, you don't need lead additive. If it's detonating on the available gasoline, you might need an octane booster.

Yeah, rears "defective" on a Red Eye. Right. LOL. Rears are defective on my Opel too. Tread completely gome in only 50 1/4 miles.

The 20s on my car have aged out, but they appear great, and still have tread I don't really wanna give up. (Pirelli p-zeros, under 15k). Gonna try for another 5k. When I do replace, probably Nittos or Kumhos.

There ^^^^^^ is your answer. I feel pretty confidant that the cam 496 Polara suggested will fit, and be a good choice. . But you can't go wrong asking questions of reputable cam guys. Jones, Bullet, PRH. Just be prepared to answer as many questions about your car and usage as you can.

I don't recall ever having a vinyl roof car , so, .... with a grain of salt. I have a spray cleaner with bleach (probably similar to bleche-white). I might try it on a white roof, certainly NOT on a black one.

Dumpster pickup at 4:10 am this morning. Didnt bother me any, the dogs woke me up at 3:45 for a potty break, in the rain.

In my opinion.... it still comes down to the comp ratio you have, and the deck height. That will determine how much cam you CAN use, and how much you SHOULD use. And without that info, we are all just spinning wheels. Check out a comp ratio calculator to find out all the info you need to have to...

It was going in a 440/727/60 Duster, for 90% strip use. Was a beast on the street, .... with 5000 converter, and 4.56.

Duration and cam timing have more effect on piston to valve than lift. At full lift, the piston is WAY down the hole. I made a cutter, out of an old valve, used a drill motor, and an old head as a fixture, and cut my own reliefs. Pick the lift you want, then get the shortest duration you can...

The factory rated compression ratios by Mopar are usually 1/2-1 point optimistic. Your 67 with closed chamber heads was probably closer to 9.5 to 1. Does it still have the standard bore 1967 pistons in it? If not, compression ratio could be anything. For reference, we had a cast piston flat...

Flattops can be anything from 7 1/2 to 11 1/2 compression ratio, depending on stroke and deck height. Do your pistons have valve reliefs? How far down the hole are they? We would need the accurate comp ratio (NOT what Chrysler or the piston manufacturer claims!) to begin to make a cam...

Just now re-read your first post. Are the source heads you're planning on using closed chamber? What cc?

I have a later build Eddie 440 Sixpack manifold, and the machining and core shift is gruesome. Wouldn't surprise me a bit if it needs some correction. The trouble is finding a machinist that can do it, and KNOWS what he's doing.

Yeah, I'd like to have the gasket diameter closer to the bore size, but I'd look first for the thickness I want. Time to do some calculations to find how much available gaskets affect the comp ratio. I've always used the Wallace calculators, and without actual measurements of the heads, I use...