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There is a set of stage 6 heads with intake for sale on Moparts.

If you can get a ready to run set of later heads,906/346/452, that don't need redoing then you can save money there. Maybe a set of valve springs and go.Otherwise 440 source or sidewinder heads will be far ahead in HP and have a smaller combustion chamber for easier compression AND less prone to...

If you can do the work yourself you are well ahead. Even if you are paying someone a cam and lifter swap with new timing chain and valve springs should be within your budget. Having the distributor recurved is a must in my book. Or you could look around for a good running 360 that would be a...

3-8-Teen Dream Something like the Comp XE256 (or similar specs/brand unimportant) with NEW VALVE SPRINGS will make a nice responsive package. Sure you can go one step bigger with the cam and find yourself wanting a better torque converter,then head work,etc,etc.

#71 car is a 71/2 and #43 is a 73/74 IMO.

If you aren't experiencing detonation then I don't know how you could be hurting the engine. Run the 87 but if you hear it detonating switch back to premium. Or mix it half and half if you want to feel better about it.

Some people just don't like dealing with headers. Spark plug access,burnt wires,leaking gaskets (flange and collector),and poor ground clearance with some header designs. They just want to get in and drive without the little hassles. I get it. If I had to choose between a good set of heads or a...

Are you having a cam ground for manifolds or planning to switch to headers later?

The better the cyl head the easier it is to make power. A good set of heads with something like the comp XE274 or similar would work. A hyd flat tappet with the same figures will get you there with stock rockers and valve covers.

You are blessed (and smart too!). I would still be waiting for a tow and hating life. :lol:

I wish you all the success in the world with it! My first car was a 73 Charger and I would love to clone it. Don't see it happening but a man can dream!

Big improvement with the scoop.The black grill doesn't bother me at all. Gives it a meaner,Darth Vader look IMO.

I would want to know what gear,converter stall,and vehicle weight before I comment. My guess would be trying to get the cam to come in sooner in a heavier car with a motor that is not known for bottom end torque.

I would go with the magnum one. Should be red for 69 I believe? Does your car have factory exhaust manifolds? If so are they HP or log? HP would have been a magnum and log style would have been four barrel IMO.

Techron and seafoam are good additives IMO and have been for years. I wouldn't have a problem using Lucas either. BG 44k has a good reputation and we used it quite a bit at the shop I work at until their rep disappeared.

600hp is doable with enough compression,head flow,and camshaft. While it is at the upper end of streetability it is doable. A performer rpm will support that and if it is ported even better. Something like trick flow or well ported Edelbrock heads will get you there. 10.5-1 and a cam in the...

Before I comment on intake selection I would want to know the rest of the engine setup , Cam,compression,heads,etc as well as the rear gear and what stall the converter is. That being said it is hard to beat a performer rpm intake for most street cars (especially a heavy one).

You might get away with a street dominator intake but I highly doubt a track heat or any other tall intake will clear.Maybe a performer rpm intake with a drop base air filter and a short air cleaner. Years ago I cut a hole in a stock flat hood and used a bolt on (riveted) six pak scoop on mine...

Congrats sir!

If that is the case then stick it in the lean side to monitor first. You can always install bungs in both exhaust pipes and switch the sensor to watch both sides one at a time if you don't want to spring for the dual setup. Install it where you have easy access for the sensor and wiring.Make...