Search results for query: what oil

Very strange. Do you see more oil coming out of the rockers when priming since changing the timing set? I’m curious about what you used for a button. Some sit on the front of the gear, some fit in the hole but are stepped, and the step sits on the gear, others fit in the hole and are bottomed...

You oil the parts after doing the black oxide process. After the oxide absorbs the oil you wipe off the excess, but they really don’t feel oily if that’s what you’re asking.

Well I went to order it it asked if you want oily or dry . I ordered dry and I read your earlier response.

I need the measurement of the engne oil dipstick tube from where it goes into the block to the top of the tube. Also, what is the distance from the full mark on the dipstick to the rim of the dipstick that rests on top of the tube? Thank you, Mrs. 69/70 Plymies

Hi, first post here and first older Mopar :) I have a noise, a ticking/knocking noise when i drive, specially during cruise at around 30-50mph. What could this be? I have enough oil in it, 20w50. Sounds harder in the video than in real life, but it resembles that of a lifter problem. Quiet when...

What might be happening here is the additive, a compound containing Zinc, does break down, but the element zinc does not leave, except by what might be found in the filter or at an oil change.

I'll assume the following; The cam bearing holes are lined up so oil is getting to the shafts. The shafts are installed with the oil holes down in the correct location. The adjuster ball/pushrod cup were the same size. The adjustment/pushrod length is correct allowing the adjuster 2 threads out...

To add more cooking oil to the fire, here's another mention. LOL. I can see this whole thing turning into a food for thought fight. LOL. NO NO NO!!!!! 1/4" is way too tight. Please don't set it to that. 3/8" min. 1/2" max. I shoot for 7/16" sure 1/8", 1/4" etc will work, but here's what...

Yes, I understand, BUT pouring a little oil in a filter is not "filling it". You can't fill a filter on a BB Mopar. And I haven't done so in 55 years. Not sure what difference that would make anyway.

What do you mean? Like you can't technically fill it 100%?

Benchracing every topic possible is what this forum is all about. But we just may be overthinking this one a touch, FMJ. It makes sense to me that deeper the pan is, and the more oil it carries, the further away from the bottom of the pan the pickup can safely be. The extra 1/8” also gives...

If we really wanted to, we could criticize each other's cars until we're 6 feet under, including what the best brand of oil is, points or electronic, or what the correct degree of gloss is on a motor mount bolt head. If someone has their car looking a certain way, it's because that's the way...

skipped to the last post , I HAVE NEVER HAD EITHER GO BAD ...ran whatever kind of oil that small time sponsors would finish in the old hemi car , all 40 or 50 weight ...all kinds in the SBC, and a few diff in the 505 , now synthetic...

I thought it was only advised for only higher spring rate applications in rollers but exactly what that it is I dont know.

Assuming that it has fast acting ZDDP, that sounds to me like a good amount for a break in oil. In my opinion, I would use an oil that is blended with higher ZDDP levels and not add separate bottles of ZDDP additive. As illustrated by @khryslerkid's post above, adding ZDDP additives can be very...

Black_Sheep mentioned a harmonic balancer installer. You will need a puller as well to remove the balancer from the crank. I would remove all plugs from the block and heads before the machine work is done. Freeze plugs as well as any oil passage plugs. Some of these will be a press fit that tap...

Then you have the idiots that don't slow down no matter what! Hopefully, the oil pickup is already down in the bottom of the pan. One way to find out is to drain the oil, then drop in 2 quarts. I like to remove the spark plugs when doing this.....watch the mechanical oil gauge while using the...

Yup, going to start at the beginning. Drop the tank, drain and inspect. More than likely order a new tank. Blow out and inspect the fuel lines. Change oil, change oil in the trans, new points and plugs, wires and cap and rotor. Rebuild the carb. And the engine should fire. Radiator is empty...

I think I would try to pressurize the oil system though the oil pressure gauge sender. Making sure to block off any open oil ports.

The thrust plate locks it from going forward, the cam sprocket locks from going rearward. The cam floats there, and has a certain amount of play. According to spec