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Hello Selling off some of my duplicate parts from my 66 charger project . I have a pair of metal splash shields on is in very decent condition the other has some rust through on top edge and corner and will need some tin work . I sand blasted and painted with 2k chassis paint. Please see...

I just got done reminding my wife, on the way home from installing a pool pump for her kid, that I am not a friggin' machine! :mad:

Great Aunts Annabert, Stanleigh, and Imgard.

They ran the track, facing West. They used to go facing East. Is this the same SIR, Seattle International Raceway, that has the road race track attached to it? Would be an anti clockwise track. I think Kent is the local town. Have not been for a few years.

I will put a timing light on it and watch the mechanical advance that is. the vacuum advance kicks out at wide open throttle so that can't be it. you do need some heat in the intake for the fuel to vaporize.

I have half an acre and a new house, 800 steps from the ocean, a 41 Ford tractor, a 77 Dodge camper van, and a few bikes. All that is legit. The downside, the pub 800 steps away, burned down and has not been rebuilt. The travel lift was deemed not safe. So I have to go about twenty miles to get...

The coldest that I can recall driving any of my classics was maybe 39 degrees. They all seemed to be a bit rough when cold but once the coolant gauge starts to move, the idle cleans up. I have 5 running and driving classic V8 vehicles here, none with operational chokes. None have heat going...

i would think it would be almost impossible to snap that all thread by priming the pump.

And to 68-500 I'm reusing the filter since it only a couple hundred miles on it. Thought that might have been my leak but traced it to the pump. There is still some oil in it. I did not lose much oil removing the pump so a hand twist on the pump with my all thread tool might work to get pressure.

I believe when rebuilding the pump with o-rings and gasket there was/is a hex on the outside but as you can see in the picture the distributor side is round with a slot in the middle for the shaft. Only about 1/4 inch lip before the "slot". The FSM does not have a clear picture. My 64 413 has...

Once you get access to the nuts, spray some penetrant on them and let them soak so you don't twist the studs off. I belive they're self cutting speed nuts. Something like these.

I was one of 65 cars that was invited to a car show at Pacific Raceways for the big NHRA event in Seattle this past weekend. Very cool. This was a picture taken along the cruise route to the track.

For sale is 1 original 1966-1970 rear axle to body brake hose bracket. It has been bead blasted and primed. It does have some pitting. The price is $15.00 shipped in the lower 48. If you are interested start a private conversation. Thanks! I have had some questions as to the placement of this...

Nice work, alsant, Dan, and oc! I took it on the chin with 1st and 2nd round losses, like Bud. Only 11 TF and 8 bikes - holy cow. I'm staying with my locks. Good luck everyone!

are you talking about the same thing ? he's talking about the distributor shaft that hes mimicking with the slot end all-threads.

Yes if it's curved

I found an old pair at a buddies house beyond the tree line. Should clean up nice, the tire machine (coats 10/10) was giving me guff when I got them so, they are in the one day pile

The heat through the intake was for cold drivability only. Designed by the factory so people could start their car cold and within a min or two and drive away.It helped fuel vaporization during warm up. Helped prevent stalling and stumbles. Heat riser's were on production cars long before before...