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I believe they are TRW NOS (bought from Craig and not bashing him at all - he didn't manufacture them). I think I'll buy another and see how it feels. I need to put in an order for drums anyway to keep my brakes from getting dusty. My guess is they are fine, just at the ends of the tolerance -...

I think that's where KernDog was going as well. As soon as I wrote that I knew where it would end up! It's supposed to be stiff in the box and loose out of the box :)

Thanks - maybe I'm just being paranoid. I'd rather replace now and keep this one as a spare if they are usually stiff out of the box like the other

I have not greased either yet I'm trying to determine play. It just feels loose - moves easily vs the other. Just collecting opinions.

I've been assembling the front suspension on the K-frame. I attached the lower ball joints (both new sourced from the same place) - one feels stiff and the drum stays vertical. The other side feels loose and the drum flops out. What say the experts - is the "loose" one bad out of the box...

Welcome. I've found -lots of helpful people here. They are picture whores, so they'll want to see that project in whatever condition it's in. Good luck!

Assembling the front drums. Will press new bearings into front hubs tomorrow.

yeah, my build sheet was mouse poop years ago.

About a month ago, the shop doing my metal/body work called me and said that the leaf springs on the car were not the same (the 2 were reportedly different lengths). They were trying to check the final fit before welding the rear frame rails, so I sourced 2 used ones based on the manual (1970...

Slow progress as they weld everything together. I do want it to be strong/stable, so I'm glad they're taking their time.

I bought it about a year ago and have been relying on it for finish info, part numbers, finding date codes, etc. It seems like a good reference overall; however, I ran into an issue and wondering what other people have found. About a month ago, the shop doing my metal/body work called me and...

PM sent

The socket is the same for both. As I was looking around, I saw Classic Industries sells an OER one that requires their special ball joint (K772C); however, they say it's 1.238 at the threads, which is significantly smaller (.6 inch). I'm not sure how that's right or big enough, but that's not...

I'm looking for a pair of UCAs for a 70 Charger. I don't need the bushings/balljoints, just the original frames in good condition. Thanks Ross

Thanks - will check socket size and measure the female side in the UCA for additional info. Everything else looks identical.

Ok, so the UCAs were rusted out on my car. I bought a used set off fleabay, disassembled, blasted, painted (closer to natural) pressed in eccentric bushings (based on other posts) and thought all was good. I went to install the ball joint - bought plenty as part of the crazy low prices on...

P1 & P3 sold.

Based on what I see - feel free to tell me where I'm wrong / seeing a number incorrectly. P1: 72642 & 1890 P3: 74642 & 1390

***************** Updated - definitely or originally from a 70 Charger From 76 unknown car $75/BO + shipping *****************

Got it. 76 wiper motor from unknown car - updated the thread title for you.