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How wide are the front wheels and what offset? Is the front of your car lowered? I have 255/60-15 all 4 on a 70 Plymouth, fit fine on stock 15x7 rallies. No rubbing ever.

At the resistor the side with blue and brown needs to go to the coil so when key is in crank it will have power. The single blue wire provides power with key in run position. So you need to connect the two together for car to start and run.

Does this carb have the base held on by screws? This will happen, the gasket shrinks and now it's loose. Try taking it off, flip it over and snug up the screws. Usually works.

It's easy to do with a helper. Inside moldings shouldn't bother it, but may be better in case the butyl tape ones out.

Center dash piece for no AC vents. Seam is where I added red lines. This piece is plastic. The dash switch panel is pot metal. Same shape

I would not take apart an NOS switch. Does it move smooth right now? I have one that was all gritty from sitting out in the desert. Barely moved. Cleaned it out and lubed it up, works good again. Lubed the pivot points not the contacts.

It fits the 1968 standard dash only. This is only 1/3rd of it.

This is your opinion. HP stamp is worth no more to you. How can you say that for others?

I have not had to remove the shifter mounting plate. Let the oil pan rest on the drag link and it will be pointing down enough for that shifter mount to clear the floor. Be careful going back in, don't pull the trans in with bolts, you can break the bellhousing. I just saw a post that an iron...

70 Sport Satellite has narrow rocker molding standard on all cars. 70 GTX and road runner has wide rocker trim as an option and bare is standard. So they don't use the same clips. I have a friend with a 70 Sport Satellite and he has not yet found any rocker trim clips that will work. Would...

The slot is in the drive gear, it is engaged with the camshaft. You won't spin anything with that slot. Take the drive gear out, and the bottom end is a 5/16" Thats what drives the oil pump. The priming tool is 18 inches long.

It's a 5/16" hex drive. I made one from a piece of round rod and a grinder. Put thee flats on drill end for Chuck to grab without slipping. Loaned mine out and it was still out. I'm going to make them and hand out for Christmas, along with battery terminal wire brush tools.

Can't be done, separated area above the wheelhouse. I looked into it on a parts car that was just a shell. I was on a Plymouth. A dodge might be different, since the quarter panels are.

Yes bolted on with 2 studs and nuts. Now for the bad news, must lift up the headliner and remove the headliner teeth at the rear of this to remove the nut. So all the back seat area trim needs to come off first. Back seat, rear door panels, and that wide metal panel above the rear door...

It's a picture on their eBay sale ad for the knobs. That's all l I know for certain. The bezels with the black line, aren't they for 1966 model year bezels only?

There are many fail points inside there besides the heater core. Did you know there are two 5/8" heater hoses inside your box? Along with a water valve and two o-rings on the inlet pipes where they bolt to the box. It's not much fun but try to diagnose it in the car and see what's leaking...

Anybody who has one for sale knows what H and J code means. No confusion.

RB 413 1959-1960 Chryslers. Strange to remove the head and see the tiny bores looking at you. Came in 2bbl and 4bbl versions

I do what you are asking about, a 160 is reaching full open sooner and can make it work on some cars. Other just keep getting hotter until you fix the problem. Different cars need different things and a 160 does work on some of them. I don't understand everyone going off on 160 thermostats...

Don't pack it full of anything other than some engine oil if you want to. It will draw oil just fine. Yes it's a big block, same oil pan, heads, rocker arms, valve covers, water pump, oil pump and drive, timing chain, camshaft, fuel pump, engine mount brackets, etc, etc.