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Well that explains a lot. And why the tool picture at Summit on line looks round instead of pointed. Without that explanation I would have received the tool and wondered what the heck? And probably the tool I posted next to the distributor is the correct tool. It has a hex on the other end...
Fran, it looks well machined. The old one was mostly rusted in the bowl. The bore looked salvageable. I will have to see if I kept the old one. Between the 66 and 67 I have a storage box of old cores.
JonR - thanks. At least I’m not going crazy. I’m going to see if I can find an o-ring and...
2 Plymouth volares
1 rare super coupe front clip with title and original engine
Tons of extra parts…
All of it has to go.
2000.00 for all obo
Farmington mo
The plate will fix your issue. No need to weld the slots. That's the purpose of the plate...to limit the advance to the number on the plate. The initial timing may have to be a few degrees off to get the perfect maximum timing. 68-500 covered this above.
I have long extensions as well. Just pulling 4 bolts to trans ( into bell housing). It hit trans mounting area under car ( where trans support mounts to under body. Only have about 1.5 inches of slide back room for trans before in hit support on underbody. Not enough to clear trans shaft from...
If you didn't have problem with your original have it sleeved. Is the surface where the cap goes on machined or as cast? Two pours castings don't think so.
the Camaro sub frame bolts to the body, unlike the Mopar unibody. In this case, it's also welded to the frame connectors; and I hid that set of bolts. I painted the subframe a hammered/metallic finish to mimic unrusted bare steel and set it apart from the body. The car will be black and I think...
I had the same thing with my 66 pot. I always thought it was from a fitting or that bottom boss. Finally it had to be that the cap was weeping slowly down the sides. I sprayed the pot with brake clean to get it perfectly dry and eventually saw the very slow weeping. I cut a new gasket for...