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I think the coast side could be improved a little with a little less pinion depth. But my effort was on an 8-3/4. Agree - see what @dvw thinks.

My younger Brother owned a twin to this 70 W30 in the mid-late 70s. I drove it once or twice and it blew me away as to how good a car it was. I about cried when I heard he sold it for money to finish school without letting me have a shot at it first.

That long threaded stud on the carb accelerator lever also looks suspect to me. It hasn’t anything to do with the popping but still it’s a pretty strange hookup.

Sent PM

So far the MC has stayed dry overnight but I probably won’t declare success until 3 days have passed. I put one of the other flap seals in a cup of DOT5 and I’ll watch it for a few months but I’m a skeptic of all the stories about DOT5 hurting seals. I think the manufacturers are just scared a...

I think he has solved his issue sometime back.

The plate will be close but probably not exact. There will be some trial and error. The slots on the plate equate to crank timing. Set the plate on 18 with 14 degrees initial timing you will have 32 degrees total - or close. It’s meant for running initial timing of at least 14 degrees, or...

Hood pad rubs top of the chrome dome in my 66. I place a micro-fiber towel on it before closing the hood.

Wow, surprised Craig is out of stock. Guess I was lucky last winter.

I braved the heat to run up and down the boulevard a couple times and parked it. Dry afterwards as usual. See what happens over the next couple of days.

Yeah, I have another one I also picked up which is yellow and advertised as chemically resistant. But it doesn’t have as wide a lip. Thought I would try this one first just to see if this is the problem and maybe an answer. I can also cut one out of .062” cork gasket stock. When you all...

I’ll look to see if I still have the cap for the older (original?) MC. Thanks

First, here is my next effort considering most likely it’s the cap seal. The MC surface looks smooth so I didn’t do anything to it. I found a rubber flush seal in Plumbing Dept of Lowe’s that requires just a very slight bit of trimming to fit inside the cap. I figure the rubber flapper seal...

Fran, it looks well machined. The old one was mostly rusted in the bowl. The bore looked salvageable. I will have to see if I kept the old one. Between the 66 and 67 I have a storage box of old cores. JonR - thanks. At least I’m not going crazy. I’m going to see if I can find an o-ring and...

This is a weird one for me. Overhauled the brakes on my 66 this spring and bought a reproduction master cylinder since the bowl in the old one was pretty rusty. The new one had a tapped port in the boss on the bottom with a plug in it that the old one didn’t have. The boss was there but no...

Here is an example of the 90 deg elbow on the pressure line at the box. They are available from Mopar parts sites. The hose is incorrect but works. Return line clamps too I’m sure. If you find a source for correctly ones let us know

I have noticed this also on at least 2 cars I have with aluminum intakes. The engines start and run a little rough for a while until the motor gets some heat built up in it. So I usually don’t block them completely off to help this speed up some.

When I was a kid we had a scrappy old male cat. He took on every dog and cat in the neighborhood just because he could. Even the neighborhood boxers started avoiding him. His ears were all chewed up and I’m sure under that fur he had tons of scars. He was a sweet old cat to the family...

Well, try leaning out the idle mixture and then try richening the mixture to see which one works. Let us know. At closed throttle the idle circuit is the only one operating.

I started rebuilding my own. Bought a bunch of 1/2” brass bushings, found clip, screw and wire reproduction small parts sources and went after it. Unless it’s a rusted mess with a rusted cam they can usually be fixed up to work fine again without much trouble. Of course if the shaft is bad or...