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I would consult someone in your area. We have plenty of insulation companies in this area, but our climate is substantially different. I went with R-19 bat insulation on my walls covered with a poly vapor barrier and OSB sheeting inside.
It would technically be .120 over. The terms are in reference to bore diameter, not radius so .030 over is .015 removed from each side, .060 over is .030 removed from each side, not that circles have sides but that’s common terminology.
I’ve run a similar cam in a 572 hemi. Yours should be a good match to the gear and compression. As DVW says, it’s ramp rate that can be an issue. If the ramp rate is slow enough, you won’t need a ton of spring pressure and it won’t kill a needle bearing roller lifter. I ran Comp 892-16 lifters...
I had a secondary injector pinned to the wrong location causing it lean out a cylinder and back fire. I got that sorted. Ran a few soft 5.93s with 1.5x 60’ times leaving in second gear on E85 with 7psi. Running 17psi out the back. It coasted through the 1/4 at 9.37 so that was encouraging.
Don’t waste money on a pinion snubber, especially if it’s lowered. It’ll just push the pinion down and the car will porpoise. Been there done that. Get a set of caltrac bars or if it’s street only, even a cheap set of slapper bars will keep the axle housing from rotating up.
Yes, you’ll need springs specific to the hydraulic roller cam. Keep in mind, putting a hydraulic roller in a hemi involves lots of clearancing of the pushrod tunnels in the heads. What’s the combo and the intended purpose? If valve lashing is the reason for wanting a hydraulic, put that concern...
It’ll be way less expensive to do with a ratty old 440 and a turbo than doing it with a 500” NA stroker. Either way is easy and the recipes are out there. I’m at 1200rwhp and I can tell you there’s always someone with way more going way faster lol