Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I solved that on my 67 Satellite by rewiring my headlights to draw directly off the battery using relays. I did that to eliminate the common concern of overloading the aging wiring. The bonus was that the stock headlights are now much brighter, and I get very little dimming at idle. I am running...
Just a clarification for anyone still looking at this post, the track in the first photo is installed upside down. The curved end should be at the bottom.
Option 1 is what is normally done when pouring a garage floor. It will be smooth and shiny (the sealer is only applied to help the concrete cure properly), but will do nothing to prevent oil stains.
Option 2 is really 2 options...you can just use epoxy paint (after proper prep), or the ones that...
I've used the Pertronics kits on my 68 426 Hemi and on my current 67 Satellite 383. Easy to install, and looks fairly stock. To keep the original look, I soldered a wire into the back of the firewall resistor, so you can leave it where it is. It's not required on the Pertronics system. Some...
Here's a shot of the completed Holley Sniper system in my 1967 Satellite. I went with the complete package (Sniper EFI, new fuel tank w/ electric pump, Hyperspark distributor, coil & ignition box). It looks fairly stock with the breather installed, except for the visible fuel pressure gauge.
You...
I first installed a layer of Nudura self stick butyl waterproofing membrane, and then added the Siless 157 mil reflective membrane from Amazon over that. This made a noticeable difference in both sound and heat transfer through the floor.
The brake pedal is purposely lower with power brakes so you can apply the brakes with your heel still on the floor. That gives you better control for smoother stops. Wouldn't it be easier to rejig the brake light switch so it contacts properly?
I have been using this exact method to tie down my 68 Road Runner when traveling to out of town shows. It's the only way to completely eliminate contact between the straps and paint on any underbody parts.
I have a similar problem where the ammeter always reads high on the charge side. I have an EFI conversion with electric fuel pump that was wired directly to the battery as per manufacturer instructions. So based on your comments, can I assume there is nothing wrong with my charging system? My...
Very simple... for a Pertronics conversion, just remove the resistor, solder in a solid insulated wire from one terminal to the other in the back side, then re-install. That will maintain the stock look. Make sure you replace your coil with one compatible with a 12 volt system.
The upper pivot on the right vent window is broken. I found an nos one, but it didn't include the little shaft that fits into the chrome frame. Is that suppossed to be a part of the frame? See photos.
I am restoring the instrument cluster in my 1967 Satellite. Does anyone know how to remove the lens so I can polish or replace it? It looks like there are plastic rivets that are melted at the top to hold it in place.
You might already have this figured out...I just rebuilt the bucket seat tracks on my 1967 Plymouth Satellite, so I measured them. The outside track is exactly 1" higher than the inside track. That dimension is the same at the front and back of the track.
Not sure I agree with that. The alternator will easily put out 15 to 16 volts, which is normal. The regulator controls the voltage, so I would think you either have defective regulator(s), or perhaps a bad ground on the regulator or elsewhere in the charging system.