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Not sure I agree with that. The alternator will easily put out 15 to 16 volts, which is normal. The regulator controls the voltage, so I would think you either have defective regulator(s), or perhaps a bad ground on the regulator or elsewhere in the charging system.
Keep in mind that back when these were daily drivers, they ALWAYS ran at the rpm's you indicated. Having said that, the typical motor was ready for a rebuild by 100,000 miles. If you want to increase engine life and driving enjoyment for longer cruises, you can always spring for a gear vendors...
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Reading through your blog, it looks like this is becoming a "money pit" project, with all the extras needed to complete the installation. Have you looked into the Silver Sport 4 speed auto conversion for '60's Mopars? They claim it includes everything you need without butchering your...
Put it on a hoist or axle stands with transmission in neutral. Put a chalk mark at the pinion end of the driveshaft (parallei to the driveshaft), and another chalk mark on the inside of one of the rear tires. Turn the tire, counting how many times it goes around for the driveshaft to complete...
If you want to be able to smoke the tires occasionally and still have an enjoyable ride, I would go with the 3:55s. However, the 3:23 is great for cruising and still provides some grunt on the street if you have a big block with a torque .cam. I owned a 68 hemi RR 4 speed for 46 years, running...
I have epoxy with flakes on the floor of my indoor pool. It still looks like new after several years. However, I wonder if it will be harder to clean with the flakes, as that makes the surface sort of wavy (something like really bad orange peel).
Some have commented on it being slippery when...
Mopars have two 12 volt wires from the ignition switch. One supplies voltage when the key is in the crank position, and one when the key is in the run position. You need to connect both together (and bypass the ballast resistor) on the sniper system. That way the fuel pump will run as long as...
The mopar horn relay setup is as simple as it gets. Not sure why you would want to change it. Now if we are talking about the headlight wiring.... that's another story!
I would guess your coolant temperature gauge is not reading correctly. 110F (50C) is only luke warm, and will result in poor combustion. Should be around 190F - 200F.
On many aluminum intakes you need to add thin gaskets to the valley pan to get a proper seal (per Edelbrock Performer instructions). I did that when changing from the stock cast iron intake to the Performer on my 383 but found the manifold bolts would not go in properly due to mis-alignment of...
Have you checked to make sure the rocker shafts are installed correctly? The oil holes are at a 15 degree angle. They need to be at the bottom, 15 degrees toward the exhaust manifolds.
I think going with the standard bore 383 is a no brainer. .060 over is stretching it, and you don't have room for an overbore if it is ever needed in the future. You won't regret spending a bit more to start with a solid block now.
A trickle charger shouldn't hurt anything, as it only maintains the voltage at what a fully charged battery would have (13 - 14 volts). Just make sure the charger is designed to reduce the charge when the battery is at the correct voltage.
If something else on the car went up in smoke, it would...