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11.3v at the ECU sounds about right. There will be some voltage drop across the harness, plus gauges etc that will be drawing current.

I would be looking at what accessories/devices these belts are driving. P/S & A/C? Belt squeal with all these different belts is not normal. Maybe one of the driven accessories is failing internally, building up a lot of friction/resistance.

68, You said it all....& very well in post #1.

He was a pain sometimes...but a nice 'pain'.

No FT cam is going to like a 436# spring rate, new lifters or not....

Cogged/notched belts have less rubber in them. So they stretch more. Try & find some plain old fashioned belts..

Gene, I would say you have the wrong shocks. If the shock bottoms out/goes solid before the bump stop takes the hit, why bother to have bump stops????

There should be two wires coming from the dist. Measure the resistance between the wires. Should be 100-400 ohms. Then measure from one of the wires to the dist body. Should be infinity. If both readings check out ok, p/up is ok & does not need replacing. Where the wires are burned: slice some...

I NEVER use that type of 'extractor'. Extractor is a misnomer, should be called a 'jammer'. The design is such that it tends to jam the broken piece in even harder.

Yes, sounds like the oil filter is allowing drain back, probably a leaking internal valve.

A heavy car like a C body is going to ride better than a lighter car because the heavier car has more mass to absorb the road shock. If you want a softer ride, buy a C body, not an A body. Simple physics.

Going to 6* init timing is about the worst thing you could do. Low comp engine needs more initial timing, maybe 15-25* depending on the cam. Using 6* init timing makes the engine very inefficient & requires more throttle opening. You are probably running out of transfer slot for cruising because...

Nope, not always.... In this test, a non-resistor plug & low res wires made the least HP. The leads/plug combo that made the most hp did NOT have the lowest resistance leads. Everybody worries about the plug & leads resistance.....but nobody seems to think about the megohms of resistance of the...

Talking about inductive ign. Nope, a spark with higher current [ such as using a coil with lower turns ratio ] produces a shorter duration spark.....not longer duration. However, this is not a problem with inductive ign systems because the spark already has long duration, about 10 times the...

I would get new rods, H beam or a rod that uses bolt only [ no nut ]. The undercut for the bolt head on those rods seriously weaken the rod in a very stressed spot.

Halifax, You keep pushing these high voltage coils, which is actually detrimental to the OPs requirements. The engine in question will never need anything like 55,000 volts, probably less than 30,000 v. Trading voltage for current results in a spark that has less heat in it, & the...

Car is 'stiff' because the coil springs have added to the spring rate. Probably feels like a truck. Remove the springs & enjoy the softer ride....

^^^^ This. Plus, you have added unsprung weight with the coil spring, which is never good for handling.

You have the best carb on it now. Small primaries for great throttle response & mileage, big secondaries for HP.

A 0.7 ohm coil [ pri res ] with a 1.5 ohm bal res will produce a weak spark, if it produces a spark at all. The coil only gets 3.8 volts. The low res coils such as 9.7 ohm are designed to be used with the full 12v, without a bal res.