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Omit the Edel filters & use an external inline filter. Float level should be 7/16"; make sure floats are not binding...or rubbing on the side of the body. Have you driven it again? If problem still exists, give more info.

You will get LOTS of answers. ALL different. I run break in oil for 2000 miles; it is not just the cam that has to break in. After break in, pick your favourite oil that is designed for FT cams.

Offer to buy her a female ladder.......

I doubt veeeeeeeeeeeey much that a Champion '14' spark plug would be too hot for THIS engine. Dieseling is caused by high idle speed & high engine temps, not spark plugs. Alum heads remove heat faster; so all else being equal, you need a hotter plug to maintain tip temperature. Unless the...

The 850 carb has large[r] throttle blades. That means they let more air into the engine compared to a smaller carb. If the engine load/gearing is 'right', I could see that this engine could cruise at 60 mph on the transition cct.

As others have mentioned, cams for low compression engines require careful thought. They are already HP compromised due to the low CR. The 280 cam that PR mentioned would be as big as I would go.

He says his transition is lean. Transition fuel is supplied by the idle jet. Increase the idle jet in 0.002" increments & retest. Idle mixture gets RE-adjusted via the mixture screws. You could also try raising the fuel level slightly about 0.100" before drilling any holes.

Need more info: - rough idle acceptable? How rough? - max rpm? - what intake, carb?

I see no harm in idling. It [ wear of lobe & lifter surface ] is about the amount of time that the two parts are in contact. Taxis can spend a lot of time idling at the taxi rank, yet the engines are known for long life.

Because it: - changes the ign timing - moving the helical gear contact off centre [ with the pump drive ] increases the gap between the gear teeth; this causes ign timing variations & may increase tooth wear because of the 'hammering' from increased gaps.

Make sure you have a ground strap from the engine to the body somewhere: f'wall, inner fender etc. Often left off after a resto.

Use two gaskets....

I used factory cables.

I see no advantage, only disadvantage. The lower control arm needs to be beefier [ read: heavier ], plus the added weight of the spring/components just adds unsprung weight which hurts handling...& ride quality. The Mopar front end was brilliant from day one in 1958, why mess with it? A friend...

I modified a later 1970 727 linkage operated trans to work with a 1964 cable operated console shifter. Reason I did it was because that shifter had the nicest action/feel of any shifter I have used. Like a knife through butter....

Oh no.......................

If it is tall geared [ up to 3.23 ], I would use the Edel 650 AVS2 or factory 625 AVS. The secs on the AVS2 carb are 1/16" larger than the factory 625 AVS, so check for intake clearance. If numerically higher gear than 3.23, factory 750 AVS.

The port openings [ int & exh ] on the 915/906 heads are the same size as the 1958 350 heads....

It is not hard, it is being done everyday; it is a very simple device: a wire wound resistor with a wiper arm. You cannot get that wrong if installed correctly. This assumes the resistance is correct.

I have adjusted MANY over the years & got them right.....