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I assume it has a smelly exhaust [ petrol smell ]?
Adjust both n/seats with sight plugs out so that fuel level is slightly below the threads.
If it is still rich, then I would suspect wrong/defective carb gaskets.
Your 'gas guzzling' TQ probably had a very simple problem: the internal o rings were leaking, which would cause all of your symptoms. All carbs have slop in the t/shafts, important for safety so that they do not bind & return the blades to the closed position. Spraying...
Total timing of 35*......is useless when taking off [ stumble territory ]...because it will not be at 35* at low rpms, it will be much less.
Read the link I posted in post #12. That is the starting point, otherwise you are wasting people's time.
- Post #21 says 'timing is correct'. What is the timing at idle?
- The idle speed in park/neutral sounds about right for that cam in a 440.
- The cam lobes may be wiping which would explain the large rpm drop going into gear.
- Remove the carb top. Unlike brand H, you will not need gaskets if...
I used a 1965 console shifter [ a cable shifter ] with a later model linkage shift 727. It can be done. It was in the late 80s, memory is hazy as to how I did it. I think I modified the shift gate so that the Park cable was eliminated & just used one cable.
I have a hard time believing the W-31 Olds made over 400 hp. Where is the proof?
Roger Huntington's American Supercars records these tests/info:
- 1968 W-30. 400 engine rated at 370 hp; from his personal testing, he rated it at 320 hp.
- 1965 W-30 400 engine rated at 345, estimated hp 250...
The 'idle mixture' screw in post #1 looks like a brass screw with a washer under it, not an adjustable mixture screw.
Initial [ idle ] timing is most affected by cam size. Big-ger cams, more timing needed.
Reading post #3, the leak is where the fuel fitting screws into the alum top, NOT where the fuel line screws into the steel adaptor.
I never liked the thin black washer used in that location. Get a red fibre washer & it should fix the problem.
What you have is the stock system, it works perfectly, no need to do anything. There is some in- built side-to-side movement, but the rockers have a very wide 'foot' so that there is always full contact with the valve stem.
Since the 383 comes with ported heads & Torker intake, best bang for the buck is to get a 440 stroker kit [ 438 actually with a 383 +060 block]. Yes, the 400 block has a slightly bigger bore, but the seat-of-the-pants would not notice the difference between a 383 +060 & a 400 block used as a...
Let's get some of the BS out of the way.
The original factory pump drive was case hardened. Try cutting one with a hacksaw....
The problem was that though they had good wear properties, they were brittle....like a drill bit, didn't like shock, such as from a high pressure/volume pump. The shaft...
Front driven dists are not 'loaded' like rear mounted dists where the valve springs acting on the cam acts as somewhat of a damper.
Depending on how much slop you have in the dist drive, you can get a few degrees variation.
Dist drive wear areas:
- dist shaft tongue
- timing chain
Yep, get the air moving faster. Totally agree, that's a good move. Using a carb with bigger venturiis makes the air move slower. Slower air speed reduces the pressure drop across the jets so that no &/or less fuel flows....
I am not stuck on ANY configuration. Every configuration, stock or non stock, is not exempt from the laws of physics. Might come as a surprise but that includes Chrysler engines.
The above mentioned 440 might make peak power at 6500 rpm.....versus a stock 440 that makes peak hp at 4800 rpm...