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The drive side looks pretty good and you have a nice wide print on the coast side even if it is out on the edge of the heel. The backlash may need to be decreased a little to move the coast off the heel - maybe to .006”. But that’s getting pretty tight so running it as is might be best. You...

To me (I’m no expert) your rear seal is fine but it’s possible the seal retainer is leaking, maybe at the side seals. If the rear seal itself is leaking I believe you will find oil slung all around in the bell housing from being spun off by the crank and flywheel flange. To me your inside of...

When I was a dumb (dumber anyway) kid in high school I had an equally dumb friend (who incidentally tied for the highest GP in his HS graduating class of about 300 and he never cracked a book out of class) decided he wanted to hike the rear of his Mom’s Olds 67 Cutlass a little. She let him...

I would like to see more of this car. I built a near model copy of it some years ago.

It’s not a foolproof plan but I carry a can of Slime flat tire repair and a battery powered air compressor in my old cars. If that isn’t up to the task then I will go to the Insurance road side plan and a flat bed tow. So far I’ve been towed several times for electronic lgnition failures but...

I think the coast side could be improved a little with a little less pinion depth. But my effort was on an 8-3/4. Agree - see what @dvw thinks.

My younger Brother owned a twin to this 70 W30 in the mid-late 70s. I drove it once or twice and it blew me away as to how good a car it was. I about cried when I heard he sold it for money to finish school without letting me have a shot at it first.

That long threaded stud on the carb accelerator lever also looks suspect to me. It hasn’t anything to do with the popping but still it’s a pretty strange hookup.

Sent PM

So far the MC has stayed dry overnight but I probably won’t declare success until 3 days have passed. I put one of the other flap seals in a cup of DOT5 and I’ll watch it for a few months but I’m a skeptic of all the stories about DOT5 hurting seals. I think the manufacturers are just scared a...

I think he has solved his issue sometime back.

The plate will be close but probably not exact. There will be some trial and error. The slots on the plate equate to crank timing. Set the plate on 18 with 14 degrees initial timing you will have 32 degrees total - or close. It’s meant for running initial timing of at least 14 degrees, or...

Hood pad rubs top of the chrome dome in my 66. I place a micro-fiber towel on it before closing the hood.

Wow, surprised Craig is out of stock. Guess I was lucky last winter.

I braved the heat to run up and down the boulevard a couple times and parked it. Dry afterwards as usual. See what happens over the next couple of days.

Yeah, I have another one I also picked up which is yellow and advertised as chemically resistant. But it doesn’t have as wide a lip. Thought I would try this one first just to see if this is the problem and maybe an answer. I can also cut one out of .062” cork gasket stock. When you all...

I’ll look to see if I still have the cap for the older (original?) MC. Thanks

First, here is my next effort considering most likely it’s the cap seal. The MC surface looks smooth so I didn’t do anything to it. I found a rubber flush seal in Plumbing Dept of Lowe’s that requires just a very slight bit of trimming to fit inside the cap. I figure the rubber flapper seal...

Fran, it looks well machined. The old one was mostly rusted in the bowl. The bore looked salvageable. I will have to see if I kept the old one. Between the 66 and 67 I have a storage box of old cores. JonR - thanks. At least I’m not going crazy. I’m going to see if I can find an o-ring and...

This is a weird one for me. Overhauled the brakes on my 66 this spring and bought a reproduction master cylinder since the bowl in the old one was pretty rusty. The new one had a tapped port in the boss on the bottom with a plug in it that the old one didn’t have. The boss was there but no...