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I'd run a dedicated wire from alternator to battery in trunk.
Run a fused wire from battery or alternator to your starter relay to supply operating power to the car/cabin. Or keep the stock charge wires in place and bypass ammeter as it will be ineffective with a wire direct to starter relay or...
I converted my Alt to a Volts gauge and was going to connect it to the back of the fuse box to a switched connection, since I don't have A/C and most likely won't use the heater.
I have all new harnesses that I am ready to install. I am doing to connect the alternator gauge wires together, to...
Not seeing any posts addressing the voltage drop noted in the original post. You have a 1.3 volt voltage drop between the reference voltage lead at the regulator (blue wire) and the battery while under load? That needs to be corrected, take voltage drop measurements at all the connections...
Bypass the Ammeter inside the car (which is a fire waiting to happen).
This link will provide all the information you need;
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
If you have a weak or dead battery, just recharge it completely (with a physical battery charger) rather than...
Depends on how you did the bypass. If you followed madd which I'm not a fan of, then put a fuse/fusible link in that now attaches at the starter relay that feeds the cabin.
If you left all the OEM wiring in place, place a fusible link in the charge wire from alt to starter relay.
Sizing of...
Another reason I prefer Tuff Stuff. Again, at the risk of repeating myself here, simple explanation, with no change to the bone stock loads, heathy stock charge wiring and related connections, the alternator will not create additional charge/load current. All things being equal, the car is not...
Can't send you a PM for some reason. Shoot me a PM with an email
I can make one up for you. Let me know engine, alternator and if you have an ammeter bypass in place.
A kit delivered in the US is about 175
Thanks for the inquiry, I look forward to building a kit for you.
Rob
For a 75 amp alternator, you would want an 8 gauge wire. That means the fuseable link needs to be a number 12. it’s always four wire sizes less than your wire size.
you can send it to the starter relay or the battery, doesn’t matter. The battery wire is running there so either place is really...
I have a 'square back' alternator, two field tabs, one of which I have grounded to the case. I've replaced the regulator and starter relay, tied the ammeter wires together and how have charging to the battery, 13.2 0 13/7V at idle. I will put a #12 fuesable link or two in the system, one from...
Other steps? Should have been the first step, bypass the charge circuit bulkhead connectors, by far the weakest link in the original design. For those who have not yet mutilated their ammeter, check its connections, insulators, and then leave it alone. Learn to understand the information it...
Alternator output wire to Battery Positive or Starter relay should be sized according to the alternator rating and current demand.
The fuse at the battery / starter relay should be a slow-blow fuse like a maxi-fuse or mega-fuse that is rated to protect the wire gauge size.
The fuse is there to...
In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a...
already posted on diagram. And yes, I’m pretty sure you can use the later amm onto the existant provision changing the face. Studs gaps is pretty much the same so no mods to the cluster… now diff stuff is if the A body amm is the same deepness than the 68-70 B body. Maybe will need to trim out...
This is not something you HAVE to do but just remember there is always a risk of melting the bulkhead connector somewhere in the future. So take it for what it is. The volt gauge modification would be perfect for this MAD modification if you bypass the amp gauge. You could then use a volt meter...
Many decades ago when I was a Chrysler Dealership mechanic in 1970, the electronic voltage reg. was on the 1970 cars. I remember grounding a wire on the voltage reg. wiring plug to bypass the reg. This would make the Alternator charge and meant that I had a bad reg. But being 5o years plus...
Thanks! I appreciate the reconfirmation! I think it's easy to get sucked in especially when the condition of reman alternators is such junk. In the past five years, I've taken back two to NAPA and one to RockAuto due to stripped pulley threads. Eventually I got a good one. But the...
I just wanted to reply and say, that in my case, someone who clearly admits that I know nothing about electronics other than shadetree mechanic, it was finally nice to find an actual diagram from Plymouth that documents how to do the bypass. There have been many debates back and forth with...
So, in regard to my discharge post a few posts ago -- I went out to the car this morning and I noticed that the ammeter was sitting on the slight left of zero that I thought was the discharge yesterday.
So, I made sure that my battery was disconnected, and it was. So, I connected the battery...
The fleet/bulkhead by-pass as been diagramed/discussed here many times over the years, a few examples here.
I’ve been by-passing the charging bulkhead connections since my time at the dealers way back when.
No reason you can’t run added loads (including EFI) and retain the original ammeter as...