Search results for query: what oil

Bought an oil filter and battery for the zero turn. Been jump starting it with a NoCo pack for 2 seasons now...new battery was only $49...what the hell.

Don't put sealer on the bolt threads. You will hate it. Try different type of sealing washers, like a copper or aluminum, and tighten it up. The oil plug is straight threads, not meant for sealing, that's what the washer is for. If you put anything on the threads count on it ending up inside...

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too - at cold start, I would want as minimum friction as possible. But, the shop recommended this combo to increase oil pressure. I was thinking 'if' I did run the straight 40w, then no Lucas additive as the 40w here in PA should be thick enough. But, again...

My new strange S60 had a whine for the first 500miles after a couple of oil changes it disappeared what gear sets are they using i found Yukon tend to be noisy.

I’m currently fixing oil leaks at timing cover and oil pan, I’m thinking while I’m in here I should change the timing chain also. Should I upgrade the cam and if so what would be a good one to use?

Frozen in time I wonder what the date is on the Wesson oil

Sort of , they were steel not aluminum, but a man of your stature would know what the size was?it's somewhat uncommon

Also I finally made oil pressure to the rockers, but like I said took a bit. Didn't notice the oil out the water pump until the oil pump ran dry......but that sounds like what it's doing. See what I find later today with pressure test.

BTW.. that's a LA Roller block.. LA block with factory roller cam provision like a magnum.. can run a roller cam and oem lifters, very nice setup... i just bought a 85 block hoping it was roller but nope. They are not easy to find.

Truck pans have a rear sump and won't work in a car....a pan from a 360 car should fill the bill.

Bought a chrome 360 oil pan from Speedway that I won't be using. Will fit most Mopars from '62 up from what I understand. New in box never installed. $50 plus the ride.

What are you doing with this engine? Type of driving, RPM? Make sure no high spots on either side, run it. Just holds more oil there

I get ya'. In that case, painting the block was a good call.

Took my 68 Charger R/T out for a drive and the Tach immediately went pegged and never went back. Got to the car gathering location and spent a few hours. Then when I left I notices My tach needle bounced to past 8 and back to 0 and stayed there, my fuel, oil, & temp gauges weren't working, plus...

Vegetable oil I think.

I had a higher than I liked oil pressure with 20w40w oil. Went to a 10w30w and it's much better.

I don't know what the bearing clearances are. I had the machine shop assemble the rotating assembly. Nor does the 440 source website mention whether or not the bearings are grooved. If I idled at 1200, then it would be at a more reasonable pressure.

Any idea what that linkage set-up gained for them? Improved wet sump oil pan? That 8.75" rear was unexpected, hemi/4 speed, 600? Hp 3500 lbs,500 miles :eek:

They require a additive for the gear oil. Unfortunately no longer available the best was from Chrysler and back in the day was made from Whale oil. But Ford and GM still has additive along with part stores that have it.That will lessen the chatter on turns. Do a search for more info on the additive.

Pretty sure there is no oil at exhaust side of the heads where it would leak past a head gasket but that is what it looks like. Any chance the oil came out of the valve covers? Ive seen oil get pushed from front to rear by the cooling fan before. Good luck regardless.