Search results for query: alternator bypass

I remember seeing this discussion before and now I had to remove the dash... should I just plug the black/red together and bypass the gauge? Car was on fire once, don't want it to happen again. :) Thanks.

You are building up excess resistance. Most likely the alternator is overworking the underrated wiring. The system was never designed for the larger output alternator. You are going to have to make some changes. This always brings on debates. Myself I would run a dedicated alternator battery...

If you connect a high output alternator to the factory wiring, you’ll blow out the ammeter so Powermaster bypasses the factory system with a shunt ( their one-wire) that STILL doesn’t address the real issue of bad firewall connections.

use our search button on top right of page for more info Search results for query: alternator bypass

OK, it appears you are referring to the discussed “shunt wire” bypass as a “one wire alternator bypass”? A bit confusing with a one-wire alternator. However, it not only bypasses the ammeter, it bypasses the entire stock charge path, disables the intended function of the ammeter, and most...

I’m having an issue with the mechanical voltage regulator, I cleaned the grounds, checked the contacts and spring tension and I can only get it to charge sometimes at idle and almost never at higher rpm (1100+) When I bypass the regulator the alternator charges fine from what I can tell Any ideas

On my ’63, think the police/fleet package did bypass the BH back then. Yeah, not the best setup, but mfg’s didn’t make them to last half a century or half that. I may have added extra toast to the BH when installing an electronic ignition 25-years ago, not sure but the install required a higher...

I'm replacing the low 36-42 amp alternator on my 62 Plymouth with a factory square back 78 amp unit. What updating to the wiring harness should done. I will be using a stock mopar electronic VR. Also should I continue to use the 62 factory AMP gauge ? or bypass it ? I could use a wiring...

The Powermaster alternator is a shunt system with a (recommended) fusible link. It bypasses the factory charging system altogether, however, it does not eliminate the factory fusible link on the starter relay from where the power to the inside of the vehicle is derived so the factory protection...

Direct alternator to battery by-pass, or “shunt wire” by-pass? Better hope you never experience a short in any of the stock un-fused wiring, things will burn. By-passes the stock designed circuit protection (fusible link) as well.

Sounds like a broken wire somewhere shorting to ground....just my opinion.

Not following, what does a one-wire alternator have to do with the shunt wire bypass discussion here? Where would all the current come from that supposedly would kill (open) the ammeter when a one-wire alternator is installed? Ammeters are not measuring alternator output, should only be...

Thanks! Follow up question - I did a basic ammeter bypass years ago (100A in-line fuse from alternator I believe ?), so my ammeter doesn’t “really” work anymore. Should I still tap into the alternator???

About the “shunt wire” by-pass parallel approach? No they don’t, no electrical engineer that understands this original charging system would promote adding a parallel path around the only circuit protection for the all the stock unused wiring. Do you mean phone support techs at a reproduction...

Yes, you can join them and bypass the ammeter. Use a bolt. Seal, tape them up really well. I then also run another wire outside direct from the alternator to the battery lead to remove the majority of power running through those wires inside. It will take the easiest / shortest path. The loose...

Let me get this straight, you are talking about an added parallel wire run (shunt wire) from the alternator output stud to the battery(or the battery terminal on the starter relay), with or without its own circuit protection(optional apparently), overlaying (shunting) the original intact (or...

Black is the accessory feed from the ignition switch. Better hope you never experience a short in any of the unfused wiring or components, a lot of wires will burn before a 200 amp fuse blows with that bypass in place.

Agreed, this level added loads along with a high powered alternator should really have complete up-sized charge path wiring bypassing the bulkhead Packard terminals, a fleet bypass at a minimum.

Sounds like a York compressor. The clutch pulley should spin free. Then power energizes the coil and the compressor is engaged. Usually you cannot bypass the AC compressor with a shorter belt for alt and crank, but this is aftermarket so it may be doable. The car can be driven with the...

What’s the concern with the ammeter? The Packard terminals in the charge path bulkhead connector are by far the weakest link in the original design. The earlier screw terminals pictured above are a better design but would not apply to a ’69. Better off bypassing the Packards or doing the fleet...