Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Its very easy to wire in your own relays. The headlamps do run thru the bulkhead and can have voltage drop. But lets back up a bit first. Measure the battery voltage at idle with the lights on. If it's low of fluctuating the relays will not help. If it's ok check the voltage at the headlamps...
First place I'd look is the bulkhead connector where the alternator wire passes thru, and see if its melted; next place to check is the ammeter. There is probably a poor or melted connection somewhere causing a voltage/amp drop.
With running accessories like the fuel injection, sound system...
I kinda have mine like that now. The exception is that the stock black and red wires are still connected to the ammeter. They still go through the bulkhead, but the OEM wire going from the starter relay to through the bulkhead is also a fusible link.
1. I understand that it's better to...
Well let's see...you have a 4 gauge from the alternator to battery, and a 10 gauge thru the bulkhead with a 16 gauge fusible link. It is always best to bypass the bulkhead, as far as hooking the 10 gauge at the alternator there is no need since you have the 4 gauge. If you had a 100% stock...
I had not. Do you have a link on Summit or somewhere else of the model you have? That would get rid of all the potential wire terminal connections and ignition switch path as well wouldn't it?
IMO....any additional accessory load(s) connected directly to the alternator's output connection must (or should be) protected with a fuse or fusable link. Since the alternator is also connected to the battery or charging system, a fault in the new connected accessory, without protection, will...
If you want to keep the ammeter working as factory I would do 3 things. Bypass bulkhead connectors for alternator and battery feed. Check the ammeter connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Use larger wire than stock.
Hey Guys I Got The Ammeter Bypass Conversion Done On My 1969 Roadrunner.
I Sent It To Classic Instruments And They Converted The Ammeter To a Voltmeter
I Tied The Red and Black Original Ammeter Wires Together.
What Other Steps Did I Need To Take For The Rest Of The Wiring In The Engine Bay...
This is the age-old debate about ammeter bypass.
Many people don't like the idea of all the charging current going through the bulkhead connector (twice) and the ammeter. Many other people will tell you that it's fine so long as you have clean contacts. A modern alternator can easily triple...
That is WAY over my head. I know almost nothing about wiring. I did install some type of "ammeter bypass" a few years ago so power doesn't go through the amp meter (I think that's what I did) and it goes through a really big fuse instead (100A I think?). It is a 1970 plymouth road runner with...
Doesn’t need to go with painless wiring or any other either. EVEN LESS ABOUT MAD wiring mod Just read about firewall path, parallel wiring, bulkhead bypass ( which is NOT the ammeter bypass ), fleet alternator wiring Bypass… any of those keywords will take you to the solution.
Learn first...
Gray box is your voltage regulator. It could be relocated or if you use an alternator with internal regulator the OEM one can be eliminated. The rusty box looks similar to the seatbelt interlock bypass switch but it looks different from the one in my '74 SE. If it is indeed the bypass and you...
You have a fuse link. When you overload that the whole system is most likely dead. There are some variants depending on year. You take a older car and load off the alternator stud you are asking for problems. Worse when the alternator dies and all loads are on that old wiring. Failures will be...
Yes bypass the ammeter AND bulkhead connector for the feed into the cabin.
Yes I read the MAD article.
I read several threads on this topic but not all lol.
I currently have a functional wiring harness and bulkhead connector. I even use deoxit on the connector.
I just want a safe and...
Maybe you need to summon @Nacho-RT74 to weigh in.
Since this is always a lively debate..... :popcorn:
I also installed a nice new 95A alternator, but I still have 50yo wiring, so I have done the ammeter/bulkhead/underhood bypass' and run a voltmeter.
I’ve went completely over this thread again, learn something new everyday and ate some crow along the way. Some things have changed like the likes of led lights. With the led lights you no longer need to do the famous headlight relay upgrade. My LEDs on dim only pull a tad over 3 amps and with...