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@Paul_G. What unit are you using. I'm looking for one with the detachable screen. Is it a touch screen?

erases 8 second comment about your life and chuckles. Richard is a money hungry goon,and always has been,and treats his employees like ****. Dennis tho,is a real man. still i didnt post for them,i posted the cars for yall. give it a try,use the skip if you have to on richards commentary,theres...

UNLESS the battery's flat and the engine's running at high idle after start-up which will put the alternator output close to maximum as it tries to charge the dead battery. It WILL fry the factory ammeter.

The Powermaster alternator is a shunt system with a (recommended) fusible link. It bypasses the factory charging system altogether, however, it does not eliminate the factory fusible link on the starter relay from where the power to the inside of the vehicle is derived so the factory protection...

Early '66 were like '64-'65, in that they hung from links on front of crossmember, and outer ends clamped to the strut rods. Later '66's were like later B-bodies that attached to the crossmember, and outer ends attached to LCA tabs with links.

Looks good! I was looking for how the tailpipe looked when it left the factory in 1967. I assume they were curved down and not straight like the photo. Thanks!

Was the Harmonic Balancer painted the same color as the engine? Looked and searched but cannot find the answer or a picture of a stock engine that shows that far down.

I have a couple of sets in nice shape. I will see if the are close to that offset.

Tonight's episode

Just to be clear, simply swapping in a high output alternator in place of the stock rated alternator on an all-stock charging system, no changes to loading, isn’t going to blow out the ammeter. There will be no increase in current flowing through ammeter just because the alternator capacity...

It was a 61 Chrysler Newport 9 passenger wagon. Got a couple pics but still trying to get sellers contact info.

I rewatched True Grit last night and McClintok today. It made me wonder if now or ever has there ever been someone as good that can replace him? I know there's , other tough guys and action stars but he brought more to the screen. He didn't have to be a steroid body builder. He just had an...

OK, it appears you are referring to the discussed “shunt wire” bypass as a “one wire alternator bypass”? A bit confusing with a one-wire alternator. However, it not only bypasses the ammeter, it bypasses the entire stock charge path, disables the intended function of the ammeter, and most...

Duh, it's your anniversary and you'll be alone, in a tent or camper. I could think of a couple of things to do :rolleyes: BTW Happy Anniversary! :)

When left alone and well maintained…therein lies the problem that a lot of people have. 50+year old wiring harnesses with unknown corroded or partially broken wires coupled with aftermarket stereos, amplifiers, electric fans, fuel pumps, and the list goes on… The more loads placed on the factory...

And THAT’S why they say that there’s nothing wrong with a shunt.

My Rolex Datejust got stolen. Kinda turned me off expensive watches unless I found a good deal.

If you connect a high output alternator to the factory wiring, you’ll blow out the ammeter so Powermaster bypasses the factory system with a shunt ( their one-wire) that STILL doesn’t address the real issue of bad firewall connections.

But it's a Honda!

The one wire between the alternator and the battery is nothing but a shunt around the ammeter. That’s why Powermaster says it’s just fine. It ain’t “just fine”. It’s a work-around for keeping the battery charged but it does nothing to remedy bad bulkhead connections and those marginal...