Search results for query: alternator bypass

Is it possible to do the bypass but add two leads up to the ammeter? That way would the ammeter still work without all the strain on it.

The “push” occurs when a car has been sitting, which a lot of these cars are not being driven daily. The cranking will lower the battery charge and the newer high amperage alternators will deliver higher current than the wiring was designed to handle. Couple that with the deterioration of the...

I get that, it’s a load dependent piece of equipment just like you explained. The problem is at idle 850 rpm it goes to discharge with only the ignition being used, no other loads placed on the system, no fan, lights etc. the alternator I ordered claims 100 amp and more than 30 amps at idle, so...

If you’re worried about the amp gauge getting hot and falling, the easiest way to bypass it is to take one lug off, and put them both on one stud. But yeah… the bulkhead connection is a bad design, even when new with the 35 amp alternator. I had a ‘69 Fury I PK41H9 VIN, Police package that the...

You DIDN'T "Bypass the Ammeter" I PRAY! These KIDS are FUBAR with that crap. Amperage Is KEY. Just sayin.

I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think). I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance...

It all depends on what you're doing with the car. Unless you're adding loads to the system (electric fuel pump/fan/water pump, more lighting, hot stereo/amp etc) then the factory wiring is fine IF it's in good shape. Check the connections and feel the wiring to make sure it isn't stiff or...

I tested the ammeter and sure enough she shorted out in the process it also ruined the alternator and the voltage regulator... I think you might even be able to see voltage regulator got so hot so quick it melted the circuit board inside and even looks like she leaking hahaha

Looks like the pictured aftermarket electronic single field wire regulator should work. Yes, running a single wire regulator (mechanical or electronic) with a dual isolated field alternator, requires one field brush to be grounded and the other connected to the single regulator field terminal. I...

I’d check the wiring first. Clean everything and do the ammeter bypass. Focus on the firewall bulkhead connector. While you are at it, put the headlights on a relay I don’t recommend upgrading to the higher amp alts for the power. I always recommend because the higher amp MODERN alternators...

You make some good points but you are definitely not bypassing the fusible link. The only way to bypass the link is to of course take it off, the power is still coming through that 8 gauge wire from the battery to the relay. I used 4 gauge welding cable for the Alt to battery and used 2 gauge...

...worked........ so i replaced the single field 35[?]amp alternator with a dual field 78amp squareback from a K car. i did the alternator bypass [went from the alternator output stud to the starter relay battery post]. the amp gauge now reads the amps discharging when the accessories are used...

You dont need any type fuse on the alt wire going to the battery. The power still goes through the fusible link with this set up. You’ll smoke the link way before you’ll pop that fuse unless someone has done a hack job on wiring the alt wire to the battery and you grounded it out there and...

The red wire that is continuous through the bulkhead plug was part of the ammeter bypass I did in 2015. I changed the instrument panel too, to a style that used a voltmeter. The 12 gauge wire has a fusible link then is connected to the starter relay. This powers up the interior. NO charging...

For my 67 Charger, my ammeter gauge is working fine I doubt if I can find a voltmeter that could be a close match. I've already upgraded the headlights to LED and plan on doing the same for all the bulbs in the car. That should have less of a draw on the cars wiring. How much of a draw could...

This is how I solved my dim headlights at idle. I recently installed an alternator from a 1985 Diplomat (60amp). I read Mopar made changes to the alternator in 1985 using a thinner stator between the case end shields as compared to the thicker stator in previous units. I used LEDs in every light...

I've been using my Bayite BYT-VAM-036 digital volt/hall effect ammeter for 1 year now and I have been able to get a lot of good information from it. Accuracy is +/- 1% and indicates direction of current flow so could be used in place of /in addition to factory ammeter. Nice feature is the hall...

Wire gauge does matter. You can't go wrong going with a heavier gauge. I would go as heavy as is reasonable. if you know what the average cranking current draw is of your starter is you can use this calculator to help decide a proper wire gauge for the plus battery lead. Also good to have...

i like to run an alternator bypass, from the alternator's output stud to the starter relay "hot" post from the battery. this turns the amp gauge into showing just the discharge used with however many circuits are in use instead of running the entire load through the bulkhead and amp gauge. doing...

Consider using one of the bypass methods if you intend on that load passing through the bulkhead connector - or pass the cable directly without terminals. There is no need for 70 Amps to be present under the dash.....unless you plan on doing some arc-welding while driving.