Search results for query: alternator bypass

I've been using my Bayite BYT-VAM-036 digital volt/hall effect ammeter for 1 year now and I have been able to get a lot of good information from it. Accuracy is +/- 1% and indicates direction of current flow so could be used in place of /in addition to factory ammeter. Nice feature is the hall...

Wire gauge does matter. You can't go wrong going with a heavier gauge. I would go as heavy as is reasonable. if you know what the average cranking current draw is of your starter is you can use this calculator to help decide a proper wire gauge for the plus battery lead. Also good to have...

i like to run an alternator bypass, from the alternator's output stud to the starter relay "hot" post from the battery. this turns the amp gauge into showing just the discharge used with however many circuits are in use instead of running the entire load through the bulkhead and amp gauge. doing...

Consider using one of the bypass methods if you intend on that load passing through the bulkhead connector - or pass the cable directly without terminals. There is no need for 70 Amps to be present under the dash.....unless you plan on doing some arc-welding while driving.

...bulkhead box with another one I had. Not running the red and black wires through the bulkhead connection box and doing alternator bypass. For now, I have the black and red wires attached to the same ammeter post. It took about 45 minutes to change the wires over as shown in 2nd photo...

120 amp alternator removed from a running Mopar small block. It probably has 500 miles on it and was new when purchased, not remanufactured. This is the external regulator version so you can keep your factory regulator and the associated wiring. It works with factory brackets as well. Super easy...

How many cfm is that fan? More and likely that little 75 amp alternator ain’t going to run the fan/fans. Fix the wiring problem, ammeter bypass. Probably need a bigger alternator with alot more idling amps.

For my 67 Charger, my ammeter gauge is working fine I doubt if I can find a voltmeter that could be a close match. I've already upgraded the headlights to LED and plan on doing the same for all the bulbs in the car. That should have less of a draw on the cars wiring. Now what if some relays...

Need to....probably not. Want to....I would suggest it. An internally regulated alternator will produce a steady output at all rpms so it would seem to create a more stable system. A Denso type upgrade is very simple and requires only one new wire (from sense at alternator direct to battery) and...

I almost have my 76 up and running but the battery is not charging . I had the alternator rebuilt .I swapped the voltage regulator out and change the negative wire because of corrosion. I need to locate the firewall bulkhead connector and see if there is corrosion , do you know where on the...

Okay now we're getting some info! It's fairly normal for the OE-style alternators to NOT put out great at idle, especially "new" parts store units...that said they can still do okay. However! If you're actually showing a discharge at idle then something's wrong IF you're confident the battery...

(Sarcastically speaking)......I plan on arc welding, using 3/16" diameter 6010-5P red wire, maybe 7018 LH or 7024 wire, using my 200 amp alternator, engine idling at 1200 rpm as the power source ....and a ground of course, should I bypass the bulkhead wiring and amp meter or just the amp...

If you want to run a 10 gauge wire to the battery or the post on the starter relay, you'd use a 14 gauge fusible link. The method I am aware of in selecting is whatever size wire you use, subtract 4. So, 12 gauge would be 16, 10 is 14, 8 would be 12 etc. You will get many responses whether to...

If you believe the dual fusible link theory then the diagram Nacho posted supplying the high load fan direct off the upgraded alternator source is by far the better choice. I'd still add an inline fuse for the fan circuit. The way your diagram is now; there is absolutely no protection...

About the Mad Electrical bypass? Just a few. Do a search on “ammeter”, plenty of past threads here on the subject, lots of opinions and some facts. I’m running 130amp alternators, lots of added electrical loads (Including a Snipper/Hyperspark), correctly loaded on the alternator side of the...

Here is my take on this entire situation..... Back when our classic vehicles were designed and built the current load on the electrical system was MUCH LESS than we have demanded with modern accessories and modifications. Hence the reason to upgrade the circuit design. If you also bypass...

What older mopars have the loads on the alternator side of the ammeter?

Does not matter if you run a one wire alternator or standard alternator the wiring stays the same. There is no ammeter. You bypass it. Dakota has a voltmeter.

Do you mean by-pass the ammeter? Did you read the Mad article carefully as to what vehicle type it was intended to address? You read all the ammeter/charging system threads here and concluded the Mad Electric approach is what everyone recommends? Bypass the bulkhead connector charging system...

I disagree on the ammeter, my ammeter in my 70 is constructed exactly the same as my 75 truck, studs pushed thru a strap. That connection can get loose and cause heat, just reaching g up behind a dash with a wrench and tightening it is a bad idea, 2 wrenches so you do not stress the connection...