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Got, thank you, and I'll be testing next week!
I have not moved nor changed any bulbs yet. I haven't touched anything since swapping circuit boards and installing them. I will say the new bulbs do not fit into the board as tight as the old bulbs. I wouldn't rule them out. It would be my luck...
Firstly, I'll reiterate:
-it's in a 1969 Charger so, yep: separate power sources.
- yes, circuit board side issue.
- it did not work before swapping the circuit board, which was the reason for the new circuit board. The old one had a post break off, where the harness attaches. I'm 99.9% sure it...
1969 Charger.
Cluster is in the car.
I do not know that the new circuit board is 100% functional, but I would have a hard time believing it has the same issues as the broken one.
I have the service manual. It's been a while since I looked, but I seem to remember the broken post from the old...
All of my gauge cluster lights used to work. After having the cluster out, the right side (circuit board) stopped working after one of the "posts" for the wire harness broke off the circuit board, while I was running wires to/from the ammeter. I assumed this was for the power wire, so I "made" a...
I can not feel them, so researching to confirm I'm checking the right area. I've pretty much felt up my entire liner lol
I found those pictures. They help with location but not with what I need to mount them. Just a bolt, I guess.
I spent two hours searching. Will continue.
This does. Now...
Before I pull down my brand new headliner, how are the OEM shoulder harnesses mounted?
All I have are the clips that mount near the sun visors to attach to, when not in use. I need to track down everything else. Before I do, I want to make sure I CAN mount them before taking everything apart...
The shop may have said 2k RPM and I'm remembering it wrong. Compression is a mystery as I don't know the specs of the pistons. Comp test shows 155psi. No idea how the cam is degreed. Definitely should not be over 10.5:1, though. I'm currently filling will 91oct each time I get gas, I used to use...
update:
New rocker shaft with old rockers. New lifters in. They make more noise on startup than the old set, but I don't care. Everything else works so much better.
Timing issue: I had someone check the car and they told me they were seeing 33* at 3k RPM. My ECU is tuned to 26. When I run the...
Update:
I found a crack in one of the boots of a spark plug wire, distributor side. Another had a bit of the boot melted away on the plug side. Replaced both and the knock went away. I'd suspect spark was jumping from the boot on the distributor.
The crack was almost impossible to see. I...
Installed new lifters. Broken in with assembly paste, high zinc oil, and zinc additive.
Car started and ran great. Still does except:
When idling, I get a random detonation knock. It's only one and it's approx every 5-10sec while idling.
I do have EFI so wondering if I contaminated the O2 sensor...
I hope not. Looking at the information I can find for the engine build, the compression shouldn't be that high. When I did a compression check, I was only seeing about 155 on each cylinder.
The ignition system is electronic and adjusted via Sniper 2. It didn't make this noise before the R&R. I used to have a slight bit of detonation under certain circumstances. The tuner got as much out as he could. It would still, occasionally, rear it's ugly head, but NOTHING like this. Funny...
I cut the shafts into pieces and removed the rockers.
Everything else looked great, so reinstalled with new lifters and shafts with original rockers.
Set lash.
After break in, car idles and runs great but has hellacious (I think) valvetrain noise with any load applied. No way it's detonation...
With the ends crushed and the center not, the shafts couldn't have been straight. New shafts arrived today. As soon as I feel better, I'll be installing.