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I'm having a similar problem with my 360 4V. I did find one leak and fixed it. It's better but still not as smooth as it should be. I'll hook up a vacuum gauge but what should the reading be at idle and up to 2k rpm?
I've been running air shocks in my 69 Sport Satellite convertible for 20 years now. I've only changed the lines once in that time. Every spring I add a little air and off I go. I've never heard of anyone punching through the trunk or snapping the mounting stud and I'm pretty old. If that did...
We all had air shocks back in the day. I used two separate lines to adjust the height on each side. You would have two air nipples rather than one. They are pretty easy to install.
When it comes to pads, is that what the replacement is? A-body single piston pads? I'm just thinking ahead. I want to be able to get the parts when it's time to replace them.
Has anyone used this set-up? It would be for my 65 Belvedere wagon. I already switched to a dual master cylinder. I wonder about the quality and what are the replacement pads when that time comes...
After 20 years the 318 in my 69 Sport Satellite finally gave up. It was a good run. I've pulled the motor and ready to go to my buddies shop. I have a set of truck heads from the mid 80s. Looking for the unleaded heads to run the crappy gas in todays world. The heads have these little holes...
I always use conventional oil in my old engines. I also add the zinc additive with every oil change. I was told years ago (maybe here?) that the synthetic oil is almost too slippery. It's made for tighter tolerances that our older engines don't have. If anyone knows more then please enlighten us.