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See Post 111 and 114. The 1.5 ohm coil is too much for the HEI module, the 0.32 coil was too little. I needed a coil that was between 0.5 and 0.7. It's been working fine since for more than 1000 miles. My backfire was unrelated. I have since put new heads on, and the car runs great. The...

I just read something that the radiator hose wire was a factory piece due to the assembly process using vacuum to do the initial fill of coolant on the assembly line. It was apparently not needed to prevent collapse during operation because the radiator cap should have the system under pressure...

As an update to the original hightway temp topic, I finally got the chance to put a FlowKooler 180 degree high flow thermostat in to replace the parts store replacement I had installed. Unfortunately the same issue persists. It runs cool at idle and around town as long as I keep it under 50mph...

I bought directly from 440 source. They were assembled heads. Car runs much better. The engine had what were presumably the factory steel shim type gaskets. Between leaky valve seals and presumably bad valve sealing the car did not want to idle very well with the original heads. Its much...

I believe this was my problem, no meaningful pressure increase until more than 1/2 throttle which caused all sorts of part throttle drivability issues. The thing would shift to 3rd by 20 mph and would never kick down

So my quest to understand this led me to an incorrect assumption: --The ratio was 1:1 where closed throttle meant kickdown lever on the trans fully forward and WOT meant kickdown lever fully rearward. This turned out not to work for me, I actually spent a bunch of time measuring everything out...

I read that same article. Thats what led me to adjust my cable tighter (which moved the starting position of the lever on the transmission further back). I think with the proper factory setup, the only thing that matters is WOT since the rod length, carb and TB lever lengths are the proper...

73 satellite, original 318 car... For mine I pieced together a few items. If I had it to do again, I would have gotten straight boots. I bought 90 degree boots thinking I could direct the end away from the headers, unfortuantely the wires as they passed up to the holders would work their way...

"Well, there's your problem..." ;)

If it worked before then I would expect it would work now. Your probably right chasing internal issues.

So I will qualify this with I am not an expert but I experienced something similar with my rebuilt 727. I had a spring pulling the kickdown lever fully forward at idle and the trans would shift quickly into 3rd at all throttle positions and would not kick down at all once I was over 30mph. I...

These were the plugs. They told me I had a valve seal problem... :thumbsup: Stealth heads are installed. I reinstalled the old plugs to get it running, i will put in a fresh set and re-read them after a bit. I will say the new heads definitely run better.

Mine is still going. It only gets about 50 miles a week or so but so far so good.

Hard to tell, it has a slow leak where the pump mounts to the housing I have yet to fix. It's on the list before I add the coolant back in. EDIT: I will add, I don't think it was burning coolant, the back 4 cylinders on both sides had white valves (dual quad setup), there was no coolant smell...

Drivers head gasket looked better, bolts were more even to take out. Same white exhaust valves on the back two cylinders and darker valves on the front two. Seems that the back TBI assembly runs leaner than the front (Dual quad) so perhaps lean condition may be a contributing factor. Will...

Update: I pulled the passenger head as part of an upgrade. Bolts were not all equal effort to remove, many did not make the "snap" noise when the bolts were loosened. Head gasket was a Chrysler steel type, seemed like it was starting to leak between two of the cylinders. Also interesting, front...

I will circle back on all of these. I decided to pull the heads for a long planned upgrade and will address these other questions while it's apart. I'm going to start another thread with what I found on disassembly.

Yes factory. With a properly installed 7 blade fan and clutch. Idle and low speed temps are fine which as I understand it, is where problems would occur with a bad fan clutch, missing shroud, or improperly aligned fan would occur.

I will see if I can find your previous posts. I do actually read the posts you take the time to share tech info.

Wasn't tracking the factory RV unit was high volume. It's the best quality rock auto had. Will check this out as well