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That helps, so after a system refresh, you think you're running in the 185 range (no AC) no matter what your driving condition is? This is the core of my concern; I think I have a system that is just on the edge of its capacity. Around town the temps are locked in at 194-195, getting on the...

New cap, of course new parts dont necessarily = working... But let's see if I understand how this works... The cap raises pressure which would raise the boiling point of the liquid but what does that mean for temperature? Assuming everything else remains the same except the pressure in the...

Ok, so to recap why I'm asking: I have read countless posts where people talk about running hot and people referencing specific temps. I have read many posts with people saying their vehicle runs cool essentially never gets hotter than the thermostat rating. Perhaps this is all completely...

Maybe I'm overthinking this and its fine. It's never gone more than 1/2 gauge but once I saw how hot in degrees 1/2 gauge was I started getting worried.

So having the CTS brought some actual numbers to the game. I have an IR temp gun too. Temp gun pointed at the water pump housing (where the CTS is mounted) shows roughly the same temp. 195-205 on the CTS has the gauge needle either on the left or right side of the first line above cold. I...

Update: It finally cooled off here (mid 70s) enough to work on the car. I made two changes: 1) I swapped back to my recurved distributor. Before the head swap, I had trouble fouling plugs and poor running and the engine seemed to like the factory RV distributor better. Now with the fresh heads...

See Post 111 and 114. The 1.5 ohm coil is too much for the HEI module, the 0.32 coil was too little. I needed a coil that was between 0.5 and 0.7. It's been working fine since for more than 1000 miles. My backfire was unrelated. I have since put new heads on, and the car runs great. The...

I just read something that the radiator hose wire was a factory piece due to the assembly process using vacuum to do the initial fill of coolant on the assembly line. It was apparently not needed to prevent collapse during operation because the radiator cap should have the system under pressure...

As an update to the original hightway temp topic, I finally got the chance to put a FlowKooler 180 degree high flow thermostat in to replace the parts store replacement I had installed. Unfortunately the same issue persists. It runs cool at idle and around town as long as I keep it under 50mph...

I bought directly from 440 source. They were assembled heads. Car runs much better. The engine had what were presumably the factory steel shim type gaskets. Between leaky valve seals and presumably bad valve sealing the car did not want to idle very well with the original heads. Its much...

I believe this was my problem, no meaningful pressure increase until more than 1/2 throttle which caused all sorts of part throttle drivability issues. The thing would shift to 3rd by 20 mph and would never kick down

So my quest to understand this led me to an incorrect assumption: --The ratio was 1:1 where closed throttle meant kickdown lever on the trans fully forward and WOT meant kickdown lever fully rearward. This turned out not to work for me, I actually spent a bunch of time measuring everything out...

I read that same article. Thats what led me to adjust my cable tighter (which moved the starting position of the lever on the transmission further back). I think with the proper factory setup, the only thing that matters is WOT since the rod length, carb and TB lever lengths are the proper...

73 satellite, original 318 car... For mine I pieced together a few items. If I had it to do again, I would have gotten straight boots. I bought 90 degree boots thinking I could direct the end away from the headers, unfortuantely the wires as they passed up to the holders would work their way...

"Well, there's your problem..." ;)

If it worked before then I would expect it would work now. Your probably right chasing internal issues.

So I will qualify this with I am not an expert but I experienced something similar with my rebuilt 727. I had a spring pulling the kickdown lever fully forward at idle and the trans would shift quickly into 3rd at all throttle positions and would not kick down at all once I was over 30mph. I...

These were the plugs. They told me I had a valve seal problem... :thumbsup: Stealth heads are installed. I reinstalled the old plugs to get it running, i will put in a fresh set and re-read them after a bit. I will say the new heads definitely run better.

Mine is still going. It only gets about 50 miles a week or so but so far so good.

Hard to tell, it has a slow leak where the pump mounts to the housing I have yet to fix. It's on the list before I add the coolant back in. EDIT: I will add, I don't think it was burning coolant, the back 4 cylinders on both sides had white valves (dual quad setup), there was no coolant smell...