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No thanks. I'm not into fallaparticle for anything but firewood. Build it on the cheap, make it look pretty on the outside, sell it for 4 times what it's actually worth.

...and the MSD relay package easily allows you to switch to a positive trigger by simply removing the buss bar between the power feed and the relay pick terminal and grounding the other terminal. remove the nut between the two relays and remove the two screws adjacent to the nut. If you only...

Try and find a magnetic spark plug socket with a hex on the end. I have a pair of them (for 5/8" & 13/16" hex spark plugs). In '68-'70 as soon as I got to the drag strip I would pull the plugs and install brand new plugs then I pulled the plugs after every run and I used a magnetic socket and...

Since I will NEVER run a shunt wire, I'll not worry about a fire extinguisher, either. I'll fix the real problems i.e. worn out terminals like I've always done.

In a parallel circuit, the path of least resistance will carry the majority of the current as evidenced by your video. You are drawing over 100 amps out of the battery in your video but that current is flowing through an 8 ga wire. If the 12 ga fusible link fails, the 100+ amps will, then, be...

I totally agree with the volt meter being useless as a charging system monitor but when Detroit started building higher capacity charging systems they switched to volt meters and idiot lights as the ammeter technology was limited to 65-ish amp systems. 100 amp internal-shunt ammeters are...

The current flowing through the alternator output wire supplies very little current to a battery that's had it's initial drain replenished in the first few minutes after starting the car. The addition of a shunt alters the current-flow path that supplies the power to the vehicle. The majority...

Jumper cables. Crank it over and the engine goes into high idle once it starts and that 120+ amps that the alternator is capable of pumping out goes THROUGH the ammeter to that battery that is sucking it through the 60-rated ammeter and, thus, turning it into a fuse. If you have problems with...

UNLESS the battery's flat and the engine's running at high idle after start-up which will put the alternator output close to maximum as it tries to charge the dead battery. It WILL fry the factory ammeter.

The Powermaster alternator is a shunt system with a (recommended) fusible link. It bypasses the factory charging system altogether, however, it does not eliminate the factory fusible link on the starter relay from where the power to the inside of the vehicle is derived so the factory protection...

And THAT’S why they say that there’s nothing wrong with a shunt.

If you connect a high output alternator to the factory wiring, you’ll blow out the ammeter so Powermaster bypasses the factory system with a shunt ( their one-wire) that STILL doesn’t address the real issue of bad firewall connections.

The one wire between the alternator and the battery is nothing but a shunt around the ammeter. That’s why Powermaster says it’s just fine. It ain’t “just fine”. It’s a work-around for keeping the battery charged but it does nothing to remedy bad bulkhead connections and those marginal...

A one-wire alternator bypasses everything and requires a volt meter because the factory ammeter cannot handle the current and would turn itself into a fuse and you’d be left without any electricity to run the vehicle once you shut off the engine. Because the vehicle electric system is...

Don't get me going about Powermaster. I'll just say that the owner thinks he knows everything but he doesn't, by any means.

Some people, actually a lot of people simply don't understand electricity so thy ask questions. Someone comes along and gives them an easy way around the problem so they start recommending it to everyone else because it TEMPORARILY solved their problem and, suddenly, it becomes the rule...

There's absolutely no way that you can reach all of the dead-end corrosion and debris traps with a probe Do it right and have the block hot tanked.

Have both factory items