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Good explanation. I know about flyback and have seen the damage firsthand. Just never thought about (or had seen a diode relay). Had an issue last year with the alternator on my racecar. Every couple of weeks it would fail the internal regulator whch was an adjustable 12.5v-19.5v unit. Checked...
...ordered me a "matched pair" of genuine Toyota belts - and bugger me, they were cheaper than the Gates 'Parts Store' belts I paid through the nose for from our local Auto chain "Rapeco"....I mean Repco.
REPCO is our largest chain auto parts store.... acronym is aka "Rip Every Poor C*** Off"...
Sure any day of the week will be fine..state your criteria.....it comes down to semantics......methodologies, knowledge, one' understanding of the system, etc. It seems as if the bad grounds, loose/corroded bulkhead connections prevails. That's all everyone seems to...
No screw through those clips, the screw above the clip secures to the firewall...
There should be a stamped metal "Pal Nut" in the engine compartment... The fuse box clips to the bulkhead connector...
How long is that linkage they use for this setup? I need to lower my pedal and was wondering if buying this linkage would work. You think its about 5"?
Reading through the above details and mentally converting American terminology to English, sounds like you have a good handle on the job Larry. :thumbsup:
We have several online calculators we use to determine cable size and requirements over here....that and I have a couple of friendly...
It looks like the ratio for my setup is 10-1. A is 10" and B is 1". I would have to drill a hole 3" from the original hole to get to 4-1. I'm looking some adjustable rods that are about an inch shorter. It looks like that might do the trick.
not sure, my local brake shop suggested these and they were a winner. It managed to seal some really rotten lines, an ex military Land rover that saw service in Vietnam and was abandoned in a field for 30 years