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1.5 ohms Coil ✅ RU11 seems to meet your recommended specifications: Cold Resistance:0.5-0.6 ohms Operating Resistance:1.75 ohms Is a reading of over 9 volts on the positive terminal on the coil anything to be concerned about? Since I most likely do not have the correct ballast resistor, will...

Sarge, would you mind explaining that in more straightforward terms? I have a 1.5 ballast and a stock coil (compatible with a lot of makes over many years). The distributor and coil that I installed are compatible with 1972 400. 9 + volts at the coil is acceptable?

I'm not anti EMP. I was just looking to have a car that would start and run. Do you see any foreseeable issues with running the points distributor? Is 9 volts too high of a voltage for the coil? Do I need to change the ballast? Any other systems I need to worry about because I changed to a...

We installed a rebuilt points-style distributor intended for a 1972 Mopar 400 engine. What is the correct ignition timing for a points-style distributor? I currently have it set at 8 degrees BTDC. What’s the acceptable voltage range for the ignition coil in a points-style system? The ballast...

1.5

I have the 2 pin right now. What size do I need?

I ordered a distributor (points). Should be ready this afternoon.

This is my third new one. I want to switch over to points. I posted another thread related to that switch.

Where is the main switching transistor located?

Correct, but for some reason, no spark. I can occasionally get a significant shock ⚡ while testing.

It's Blue, but it also had Chrome.

Given the current wiring setup, I am unclear what modifications are needed to properly use a points-style distributor. I understand that the wire from the points distributor connects to the negative terminal of the coil, which is straightforward. My main concern is how to integrate the...

No. Originally the car was set up with Lean Burn. The previous owner added a control module, a Mopar performance distributor, and changed the carburetor.

Thank you for the diagram. This is what my current wiring looks like.(Yes I know it needs to be replaced, but it is holding current.) Do I need to add a ballast with four terminals? Currently if the control module is not plugged in the coil gets essentially full voltage.

No start - very weak spark

200 millivolts cranking 498 ohms

I haven’t had any success diagnosing the issues with my electronic ignition, so I'm considering reverting to a points-style distributor. What are the steps involved in making that switch?

I realize it’s been a little while, so I wanted to give you a quick update. I’ve replaced both the starter switch and the starter relay, but unfortunately, that didn’t resolve the issue. While running some tests today, I noticed that the negative side of the coil isn’t pulsing during cranking.

I'm currently under the vehicle. The crankshaft dampener has several timing marks on it—how can I identify which one is the top dead center (TDC) mark? We had trouble confirming compression at the cylinder, so we used the pencil method to find TDC. The pencil did move, indicating piston travel...

Thanks. I will try spinning it this evening.