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Does the carb get hot to the touch after running some time with the hood closed or not?

It sounds like the front carb is leaking fuel into the intake for some reason. Thus your plugs get fouled and the front bowl empties after shutting the engine off. Not sure how that could happen;perhaps base plate screws are loose causing gasket leak,another gasket leaking,something cracked or...

If your carb feels very hot to the touch.....you need an insulated spacer underneath.

Doubtfull the better flowing ports of the 906 will make much difference on a very mild build. Loss of compression will seriously hurt torque. Milling about .040 will get the compression back. mildly porting and install of 1.74 ex valve in your 413 heads might be a good option. Thicker .040 head...

Personally....i dont really trust a 50 year old damper not to fail and cause a much bigger problem. I would start with something new and make sure it clears of coarse.

Perhaps ring gaps were too tight and/or you got some old pump gas that lost some octane or never had its advertised number in the first place? My rule of thumb for pump premium is a max of 10:1 with iron heads and 11:1 with aluminum heads. That standard has worked well for me for years. Another...

If 1 single lifter fails to rotate when the cam rotates its game over and you lose regardless of how quickly the engine lights. That said...once it does light,you do want to bring it up to 2k qhickly.

Take the distributor back out and rotate it by hand w/wires hooked up to verify spark. Cranking the engine a bit to verify lifter rotation before start-up is a good idea i.m.o. . If intake is off you can then add more came lube after cranking. Much less chance of wiping lobes if lifter rotation...

The way i see it......and people may disagree...... having more spring than necessary doesnt hurt other than its maybe some harder on lifters and rockers and cam lobe wear. Not enough spring will only limit rpm capability and not actually hurt anything beyond premature valve float as far as i...

Titanium good;aluminum bad.

Thats not a big cam that requires taller springs. You should be able to run aprox stock installed height springs which have damper coils and are a little stiffer than the factory 340 springs. No machining of the spring seats required.

It sounds like the valves may not be fully closing once the engine reaches a certain temp. That can happen if hydraulic lifter plungers are bottomed out due to misadjustment or pushrods effectively too long. Another possibility could be valve guides being too tight causing vavlves to stick. Good...

Kickdown band only applies going into 2nd gear;releases when high gear clutch pack applies. Sorry to say you likely have a pressure loss causing high gear clutch to slip. That is often the result of worn surfaces in reaction shaft support where sealing rings ride and/or bore of high gear clutch...

How about aluminum 75cc chamber heads instead of your current 88-90 cc chambers? How much more compression do you need? How much cam duration do you have? Have you done a compression test to see what your numbers are now? A duel-plane intake should also increase your low to midrange torque as...

I think the long tailshaft is what you need;same as all the b-bodies. You will likely need a different driveshaft also.

Hopefully its not the intermediate shaft bushing spinning in the block. Can happen if too tight on the shaft.

Freshly built mild 360 in central Michigan.

1 cfm of airflow can support up to aprox 2 HP .

The tall deck height was intentional for long rods and long piston skirts;both of which contribute greatly to logevity. Big horsepower for these engines was an afterthought.

With medium 3.23-3.55 gearing ON THE STREET the B/RB heads are nearly perfect. Race cars are few compared to street musclecars. Big ports are better for racing [street or track] with 4.10 or more rear gears and high stall torque converters. Big ports suck with medium street gearing. Another...