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You are in luck! Because if it is valve train/lifter related, it is real easy to check. If the noise is louder on one bank, remove that side valve cover. Lay rag to collect oil spillage. With gloves on or rag over your fingers, engine idling, rest/push your fingers on the rockers one at a time...

They look great! Plenty of folks would want to swap with you....

Inconsistent triggering will cause rough running/backfires.

Beautiful red!

Check the points gap. It has probably closed up. The rubbing block wears & the gap reduces to zero. On the way to that scenario, you were slowly losing HP & economy because the ign timing was retarding. One of many good reasons to go to elec ign....

Try another battery.

Points condensers are usually 0.25 micro farad, not higher. Using a larger [ mfd ] capacitor will result in an erosion hole being formed in the breaker arm point.....& a corresponding build up of metal on the fixed point. Timing will also change because the actual contact point has changed.

Bridge the bat cable terminal on the starter with the small cable, using a screwdriver tip. If it cranks, it is the relay or wiring. No crank, it is the starter. I presume the battery cables/lugs have been checked for looseness/corrosion.

I would get the alt checked out by an auto elec. VRs are normally pretty reliable, & blowing two in a short time is unusual.

In Sydney, we have just had the wettest August in 27 years.

You can get some really 'odd' cooling problems. When I put a 440 in my 1970 Dart, I could not get the correct top rad hose for it. Never an option here. So I used a 'universal' corrugated hose. Cooled ok just cruising, If rpm went to 6000, temp would increase until coolant boiled. To avoid...

Aftermarket cam changes EVERYTHING. More lash is worse than less lash when lash is unknown. I would set lash to 0.013" int, 0.015" exh, cold.

The reason Multi spark was used at low rpms with CD ign is because the CD spark is about 1/10th the duration of an inductive ign spark. At low rpms, a long duration [ relatively ] spark is needed & a single CD spark could cause misfire. Hence, multi spark. Nothing to do with 'cross fire to the...

The shims will wear the alum pedestal, post #8? Don't think so..... The original 1958/9 factory heads came with alum blocks pushed onto the shaft & acted as the hold-downs. No shims used, rockers in contact with the alum..& no wear. Not sure what year the alum blocks stopped.

When you rev the engine after setting timing....does the engine come back to the same idle rpm? If yes: sounds like the centri weights in the dist are sticking If no: higher rpm, sounds like weights could be advancing with the rpm. Disconnect & plug the PCV port. Try again, report back.

..And HEI modules are super cheap. If you are worried about failure, you can piggy back a spare module one onto the operative module. 5 min to swap 4 wires if needed... A no brainer....

Turbine, Nope, you do not want to trade current for voltage. It is the heat in the spark that ignites the mixture, & the heat comes from the current...

HEI....

RJ, I haven't changed my opinion at all. Read what I said: if retaining the factory coil, bal res MUST be kept. HEI is internally current regulated to 5.5 amps; some electronic device, not a bal res, is INSIDE the module limiting current. You get the BEST from the module by using a low res coil...

Post #15. An outright LIE. When I bought my GTO in 1995, it had the original points system; engine had 129,000 miles on it. I had many Chrys elec parts left over. I modified the GTO dist to take the Chrys reluctor. Original GTO coil was retained. 5 pin Chrys ECU was used with dual bal res. Ign...