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Happy Together. RIP Mark

When you turn the wheel can you see any movement on the gear box side of the coupler in the shaft into the gear box? If not it could be the coupler has been apart and not put together correctly. I managed to put the shoe pieces into a coupler sideways. I somehow sensed I hadn’t paid attention...

Have you tried powering it up at all by battery? Light, speaker line output?

Could they be interference nuts? I remember the u-joint straps on my ERA Cobra they supplied in my package that I built were interference fit - a real pain. Don’t know where they came up with them. If not that they must be cross threaded or something.

With a diaphragm clutch in my 66 and the over-center spring installed, I had a hitch point in the pedal movement about 1 to 1-1/2” from the top. The pedal would rest there unless I adjusted the clutch to where it was fully engaged just above that hitch point so the clutch fingers could push it...

I understand on a 66 they may even be on the rear cross member under the rear bumper reinforcement mounts.

Had to look that one up as I hadn’t heard of it before.

My 66 looks pretty much like that.

My power steering belts on my 66/67 are supposed to be 17-series belts. Fan, and double AC belts on the 67 are supposed to be 15-series.

Short, soft bristle material as used on the inside is often sold for the outer trim instead of rubber. But I believe OEM was rubber. I wouldn’t worry about changing them unless the car will be out in the weather a lot or being judged at shows.

Please ignore. I found a switch terminal layout and wiring diagram in my 1967 service manual that matches up to his 69 RR but it’s for a Fury, not B-body. But I was able to trace the terminal and circuits out with it and the way they are being activated seems to make sense so it’s probably good.

A friend gave me a used toggle switch for his 69 Roadrunner to see if I could determine if it’s good before he installs it. They are kind of painful to change out and right now his cluster is out having the speedometer repaired. It has what seems to be the 5 typical terminals as they match...

Loosen the locknut and looking forward, turn the big nut CCW to lengthen the rod adjustment. If you prefer a reference from the front looking back, yes, you would turn it CW in that case.

It’s down behind the starter. There will be a threaded rod and spring connecting between the clutch fork and and the z-bar. Some pictures. To move the clutch engagement off the floor you will need to turn the rod to lengthen it.

Guess I’m just the old, odd man out on points. Except for my transistor ignition (TI) 66 Corvette, my other 3 cars all run dual points. Never let me down (can’t say as much for the TI). At least when the Chi-comms or aliens drop the EMP attack on us I’ll be able to make it to the deep woods.

Any carrier who is underwritten by American Modern is my favorite. Insurance availability is a State by State thing so it takes some investigation. I have American Modern through Midwest Classic Car Insurance. Also the National Corvette Museum offers classic car insurance for any classic car...

These (speed bleeders) are what I have on all 4 of my old car and are hands down, my favorite. I have a Motive Bleeder, a vacuum bleeder, a reverse pressure bleeder and a drawer full of one way valves and bottles. That’s where they all reside now - in the drawer. Speed bleeders are by far the...

Dual plane manifolds in general are the best street intake as they typically have longer runners and divided plenums which promote better low speed and midrange power with some disadvantage in power in upper rpm ranges. Single planes typically have shorter and more direct runners to the...

Sort of doubtful that Dodge followed suit after Plymouth but FWIW my 66 Satellite has trim on both sides of the seat bottoms. My 67 GTX has seat bottom trim only on the outside of the seat. Both are bucket seat/console cars

It’s all guess work but sounds suspiciously like one of the carbs (front one it sounds like) is gradually overfilling the bowl and flooding out the boosters after a few miles. Or the fact that the bowl is empty when you check it could be due to an internal leak through the metering plate -...