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I would also surmise, it might be very easy to abuse or over torque the wrench say with a locked rusty nut.

Yes I spoke with him.

I will be soon getting one from Dr Diff.

But looks to have a very fine clocking index, and once you raise the wrench off the hex, you should be able to remove the wrench, if one used the open slot to place the wrench BEFORE tightening, vs lowering over the stud? Meaning if you got it on, you should be able to get it off, unless I am...

Thanks, that all seems rather positive and not far from my intentions.

Bad U joints usually have a very distinct "clink" to them and it happens upon any start up, fast or slow, and why I didn't go there. But I can't rule it out. It's not a front ball and trunnion joint, right?

So just make sure the wife holds the kids' hand and see what the child finds during the test. :lol: I apologize for the attempt of misogynic humor. My guess, left side LCA bushing or brake strut bushing?

The clunk has to be coming from a detectable direction, location. If you can't determine that while driving, have a spotter stand on both sides of the car at a point it is most likely to occur. It's called shrinking the haystack I believe. :lol:

I would be happy with a 5-year cycle. Any estimate how much use/Maintenace that is with the Camaro? Also, curious if you know, was the Camaro owner satisfied, and would he do it again?

That might be useful at the cinema or the opera on big hat nights.

I would never do a triangulated 4 link. That is a whole nother discussion. I respect classic "torque arm" set-ups, but have no experience with them. This will be a typical 3 link set-up and will see 100x? more road course track time than drag time, which is a main determining factor.

1. IMO this is not an area that a lot of weight can be saved without really diminishing the structural integrity of the chassis and the IFS 2. Most previously claimed weight reductions revolved around converting to a lighter disc brake system 3. Any weight saved here is mostly below the COG and...

Maybe they need to offer for us seniors a model with built in wheel chalks so we can't drive off? I'm still trying to figure out that turn signal that keeps staying on.:realcrazy:

I don't disagree with much that already has been shared here, except for one aspect. I lean towards best bang for buck of an ungraded OEM TB IFS, 2 way adjustable shocks. big TB's 1"+, SFC or Torque boxes, not both, a real K member (the K member is the Pelvic bone equivalent of the chassis), big...

Hey, lipstick and High heels aren't exactly a structural improvement either.:p

My question here, trying to make the CM 3/4" joints last for low use street applications in all So Florida conditions (wet). Safety is important, they ain't cheap, and I'm lazy. One factor to keep in mind, the upper 3rd link will never be easy to access becuase of location. BTW, I have little...

Sorry, I wrongly assumed you had front discs. Yes, you have your hands full with drums with a big car on AX. Changing to grippier shoes might not be an improvement as you seem to already know in this case. Car does sound tough on the video BTW.:thumbsup:

I confess, this is the first time I have ever seen such a contraption, but I like it.

MSN

So, upping the front the TB's a tad and adding a Wilwood? brake rear bias adjuster are pretty easy reversable upgrades to address rear tire early lock up, or just get a grippier front pad compound, right? Bypassing any engine radiator trans cooling and upgrading the trans cooling with its own...