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Well, as I finally lowered my clutch engagement point down to where it felt natural to me and I increased free play, the hitch in return of the clutch pedal cropped up again despite the return spring. After playing around with it, it looks like a lot of the problem is just loose, sloppy fit of...

I don’t know a lot about 68 and newer but usually the interior metal paint color is shown on the trim tag on earlier years 66/67. I believe (not sure if necessarily always true) that except for dash and steering columns, the interior metal paint colors were the same offerings/codes used for...

That looks like an OEM Mopar/Hurst shifter since it lacks shift stop bolts. Mine was fitted with standard Inland shift rods w/o bushings and transmission levers and it was pretty sloppy. I’m not sure if this is the way they were built though - with Inland rods and transmission levers. The...

So far my Steer & Gear box I ordered 1-1/2 years ago is performing fine. Not many miles but so far so good. They were also cooperative - they took my old manual box as a $200 core on a power steering box. Also I needed a different orientated valve port on top for clearance and they swapped...

My thought too. Good chance it could get lost going overseas and is sitting in an import warehouse. But most responsible sellers provide the tracking number. However, if it was shipped and lost it’s up to the shipper to pursue a claim as he paid the shipping and insurance and has the...

I’ve noticed that some rebuild kits don’t have new brass syncro rings. I’ve only worked on a Muncie and a Toploader but I couldn’t imagine tearing a transmission apart and not replacing the brass rings. But if it’s a syncro issue you probably will have a grunch noise or grinding trying to get...

The box has minimum lash at dead center. Lash (play) increases in both directions off center. So when adjusting lash the box needs to be centered.

Happy Together. RIP Mark

When you turn the wheel can you see any movement on the gear box side of the coupler in the shaft into the gear box? If not it could be the coupler has been apart and not put together correctly. I managed to put the shoe pieces into a coupler sideways. I somehow sensed I hadn’t paid attention...

Have you tried powering it up at all by battery? Light, speaker line output?

Could they be interference nuts? I remember the u-joint straps on my ERA Cobra they supplied in my package that I built were interference fit - a real pain. Don’t know where they came up with them. If not that they must be cross threaded or something.

With a diaphragm clutch in my 66 and the over-center spring installed, I had a hitch point in the pedal movement about 1 to 1-1/2” from the top. The pedal would rest there unless I adjusted the clutch to where it was fully engaged just above that hitch point so the clutch fingers could push it...

I understand on a 66 they may even be on the rear cross member under the rear bumper reinforcement mounts.

Had to look that one up as I hadn’t heard of it before.

My 66 looks pretty much like that.

My power steering belts on my 66/67 are supposed to be 17-series belts. Fan, and double AC belts on the 67 are supposed to be 15-series.

Short, soft bristle material as used on the inside is often sold for the outer trim instead of rubber. But I believe OEM was rubber. I wouldn’t worry about changing them unless the car will be out in the weather a lot or being judged at shows.

Please ignore. I found a switch terminal layout and wiring diagram in my 1967 service manual that matches up to his 69 RR but it’s for a Fury, not B-body. But I was able to trace the terminal and circuits out with it and the way they are being activated seems to make sense so it’s probably good.

A friend gave me a used toggle switch for his 69 Roadrunner to see if I could determine if it’s good before he installs it. They are kind of painful to change out and right now his cluster is out having the speedometer repaired. It has what seems to be the 5 typical terminals as they match...

Loosen the locknut and looking forward, turn the big nut CCW to lengthen the rod adjustment. If you prefer a reference from the front looking back, yes, you would turn it CW in that case.