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I suspect you might be the outlier here. Of course, every combination is different, I'd assume there are combos that KYB might and do work satisfactory. But my suspicion here is it is not always an ideal combo, like fat/soft tires (which can be a cool look), soft bars for the combo, extra wheel...

KYB :cursin: Here is my custom 1.38" "C" Hex alongside a "B" hex 1.24" bar. The hollow bar has approx 20% higher rate and weighs 8lbs less. WR rate however is nearly the same as I'm using longer LCA's. I like big bars. :lol:

For over two decades the online discussion has been starting with whether going with .93" TB's vs .88" Tb's will make one's car ride like a "dump truck" and so on.:lol: One comment I share regularly and has yet to be "proven wrong", everybody likes bigger TB's, and nobody has ever commented...

It is, but also why increased negative camber is the first adjustment suggested for improving turn in, with fewer downsides like dartiness.

Bravo:thumbsup:

I never knew 64's were offered with front discs.:eek:

The rake just doesn't seem to click on that body style/wheel combo, not sure, but it's a nice car I am sure. Seller needs to remember, he is only looking for one buyer.

This ought to be included here in the tricked-out Charger montage: MSN

Why, weight savings? IMO a vent window is very effective and useful in a lot of non AC driving.

Proper engineering methods normally require identifying a problem before seeking a solution. Since you already have a rear swaybar and seemed inclined to install it, this presents a useful learning opportunity. Many often just install everything and draw a conclusion. It also seems you will have...

Are you implying the weight of the duct tape might slow the car down? :realcrazy::lol: And for the record, I agree, chrome drip trim is effectively a car's eye liner.

Well, I am not bald and don't have red hair, and I like aero. I was hoping this thread would go a bit deeper than cosmetics.:( And wind noise is turbulent air flow, ie bad.

You have my attention. :thumbsup:

But we get a member's discount with reward points. Let me speak to the manager.:luvplace:

I would also surmise, it might be very easy to abuse or over torque the wrench say with a locked rusty nut.

Yes I spoke with him.

I will be soon getting one from Dr Diff.

But looks to have a very fine clocking index, and once you raise the wrench off the hex, you should be able to remove the wrench, if one used the open slot to place the wrench BEFORE tightening, vs lowering over the stud? Meaning if you got it on, you should be able to get it off, unless I am...

Thanks, that all seems rather positive and not far from my intentions.

Bad U joints usually have a very distinct "clink" to them and it happens upon any start up, fast or slow, and why I didn't go there. But I can't rule it out. It's not a front ball and trunnion joint, right?